Course contents
Practitioner · Course 1: How Retail Makes Money · Lesson 2 of 5

Markup, margin and the retail price ladder

Level: FoundationTime: 45 minutesOrder used: A (the T-shirt, Delta Garments' export order to Northline Apparel, resold to Fairway Stores)Tool: Retail profitability worksheet
For a factory merchandiser, costing clerk, or buyer who must explain markup and margin as two different calculations at every point of a retail price ladder. You need lesson T19-C01-L01. Figures are teaching examples in US dollars.
FactoryDelta Garments
Export orderOrder A, 15,000 T-shirts, FOB USD 3.20
Retail price ladderFOB 3.20, landed 3.70, wholesale 8.00, shop price 19.90
BuyerNorthline Apparel, sells wholesale to Fairway Stores
Retail buyerFairway Stores, department-store chain
What this lesson measuresHow markup and margin, calculated at the same point, are related but never equal
02Opening

This page explains why markup and margin are two different calculations, even when both describe the same profit

This page is for a factory merchandiser, costing clerk, or buyer who has to explain why two people looking at the same profit on the same T-shirt can state two different percentages, both correct. At work, "markup" and "margin" get used loosely as if they were the same word, and that habit causes real confusion once a garment moves from a factory's FOB price up a retail price ladder to a shop price. This lesson mainly teaches the money flow: it shows that markup is profit divided by cost, margin is profit divided by selling price, and both change at every rung of Order A's own price ladder.

Order A moves from Delta Garments' FOB price of USD 3.20, to a landed cost of USD 3.70 once Northline Apparel adds shipping and duty, to a wholesale price of USD 8.00, to Fairway Stores' own shop price of USD 19.90. At each of those points, someone can calculate a markup and a margin, and the two numbers are never equal. Without this skill, a merchandiser who mixes up markup and margin will quote the wrong percentage to a buyer, or misread how much room a retail price ladder actually has left in it.

03Before you start

What you need, and what this lesson does not cover

You need: lesson T19-C01-L01, which shows that each company on a price ladder calculates its own margin against its own selling price.

By the end of this lesson you can:

  • state the separate formula for markup and the separate formula for margin;
  • calculate both markup and margin at any single point on Order A's own retail price ladder;
  • convert a stated markup percentage into the matching margin percentage, and back again;
  • name all four points of Order A's own retail price ladder in order;
  • avoid quoting a markup percentage where a margin percentage was asked for, or the reverse.

Not covered here: planning a retail buying budget before committing to a style (lesson T19-C01-L03), the cost of stock marked down after it fails to sell (lesson T19-C01-L04), and building one combined worksheet across all four lessons (lesson T19-C01-L05).

04Key terms

Words you will meet in this lesson

TermMeaning
MarkupProfit divided by the cost, shown as a percentage of what a company paid.
MarginProfit divided by the selling price, shown as a percentage of what a company sells for.
FOB priceThe price the factory charges for the garment, delivered on board the ship at its own port.
Landed costThe FOB price plus shipping and duty once goods reach the buyer's own country, USD 3.70 per piece on Order A.
Wholesale priceThe price a brand charges when it sells the finished goods on, for example to its own retail arm or another retailer.
Shop priceThe price the customer pays at the till. Also called the retail price.
Retail price ladderThe sequence of separate selling prices a garment passes through, from the factory's FOB price to the shop price the final customer pays.
05Teaching
The rule

Markup divides profit by cost; margin divides the same profit by the selling price, so the two percentages are never equal

At any single point on a retail price ladder, one company's profit can be expressed two ways. Markup is that profit divided by what the company paid to get the goods; margin is the same profit divided by what the company sells the goods for. Because the selling price is always higher than the cost, once any profit exists, markup is always a larger percentage than margin on the same profit. A merchandiser who states "60%" without saying whether that is a markup or a margin has not actually said anything useful, because 60% markup and 60% margin describe two different amounts of profit on the same cost.

Fairway Stores' own markup on Order A: 11.90 / 8.00 = 148.8%
What you meet in real life

Markup and margin drift further apart the higher up the retail price ladder you measure them

A merchandiser meets several shapes of the markup-versus-margin gap across a normal working year, and mixing the two up in any of them leads to a wrong number reaching a buyer or a factory.

What can differThe shapes you will meetWhy it matters
Factory-level profit, low up the ladderDelta Garments earns USD 0.26 profit on Order A's cost of USD 2.94; its own markup is 8.8%, its own margin is 8.1%.At a low, single-digit profit level, markup and margin are numerically close, so mixing them up causes only a small error.
Retail-level profit, high up the ladderFairway Stores earns USD 11.90 profit on its own wholesale cost of USD 8.00; its own markup is 148.8%, its own margin is 59.8%.At a high profit level, markup and margin diverge sharply; quoting one instead of the other misstates the retailer's own profitability by nearly 90 percentage points.
A domestic order priced without a separate wholesale stepA local brand such as Cedar & Co. sets its own shop price directly over its own buying cost from Delta Garments, with no separate wholesale company in between.Fewer rungs on the ladder still means each remaining company must state clearly whether it is quoting its own markup or its own margin.
A buyer asking for "the markup" when the workbook only stores marginA buying office's own workbook stores every price as a margin percentage; a new buyer asks a supplier for "the markup" and receives a margin number by mistake.Reading a margin figure as though it were a markup figure understates how much profit a company actually earns on its own cost.
The case we follow

Mona explains to a new colleague at Delta Garments why the factory's own markup and margin on Order A are two different numbers

Delta Garments confirms Order A at FOB USD 3.20 per piece, made up of fabric, trims, making and overhead costs of USD 2.94, plus a planned profit of USD 0.26. Mona, the merchandiser, is training a new colleague who has just read that Fairway Stores earns "148.8%" on the same T-shirt and assumes Delta Garments must earn a similarly large number. Mona has to show, using the factory's own figures, why Delta Garments' own numbers are much smaller, and why "148.8%" was a markup, not a margin.

Order A: markup compared with margin, at two points on the price ladderDelta Garments (own cost USD 2.94)Markup 8.8%Margin 8.1%Fairway Stores (own cost USD 8.00)Markup 148.8%Margin 59.8%
Fairway Stores' own markup bar is far longer than its own margin bar, drawn on the same scale. Delta Garments' two bars are close together because a small profit produces similar markup and margin figures; Fairway Stores' two bars are far apart because a large profit does not.
The worked number

Converting Fairway Stores' own margin into markup, and back again, using only Order A's own fixed figures

Fairway Stores' own profit per piece: 19.90 - 8.00 = USD 11.90
Fairway Stores' own markup: 11.90 / 8.00 = 148.8%
Fairway Stores' own margin: 11.90 / 19.90 = 59.8%
Check, margin from markup: markup / (1 + markup) = 1.488 / 2.488 = 59.8%

The last calc line shows the two numbers are not independent facts; margin can always be derived from markup using the same profit, because both describe the same USD 11.90, only divided by a different base. Anyone who has one of the two figures and knows the formula can always find the other.

The method

Four steps to state and convert markup and margin correctly at any point on a price ladder

  1. State the company's own cost and its own selling price separately; never mix the two.
  2. Calculate profit as selling price minus cost, once, and reuse that same figure for both formulas.
  3. Divide profit by cost for markup, and divide the same profit by selling price for margin.
  4. Label every percentage you state as either "markup" or "margin" before passing it on to anyone else.
The trap

A common mistake is quoting a markup percentage as if it were a margin percentage

A common mistake is treating "148.8%" and "59.8%" as competing, contradictory descriptions of Fairway Stores' own profitability on Order A, when they are the same USD 11.90 of profit expressed two different ways. A merchandiser who quotes a factory's own markup of 8.8% to a buyer who was expecting a margin figure understates nothing dramatic at that low level, but the same mix-up at retail level, quoting 148.8% where 59.8% was meant, badly overstates how much of the shop price is actual profit. What this costs a business that gets it wrong is a wrong impression of how much room exists to negotiate a price, because a person who believes a retailer earns "148.8% of the shop price" as margin, rather than as markup on a much smaller cost, will assume there is far more room to demand a price cut than actually exists.

Fairway Stores' own USD 11.90 profit, measured against two different basesCost 8.00Profit 11.90 (markup base: cost)Profit 11.90 (margin base: full shop price 19.90)
The same USD 11.90 profit bar is measured against two different totals. Against the smaller cost of USD 8.00 it looks huge (markup); against the full shop price of USD 19.90 it is a smaller share of a bigger whole (margin).
06In plain words

Markup and margin both describe profit, but they divide it by two different numbers. Markup is profit divided by what a company paid. Margin is profit divided by what a company sells for. Because the selling price is always the bigger number of the two, markup is always a bigger percentage than margin on the same profit. Low up a retail price ladder, where profit is small, the two numbers stay close together. High up the ladder, where profit is large, the two numbers pull far apart. Anyone stating a percentage should always say which one it is, because the two words are not interchangeable.

07Quick check
  • Markup is profit divided by cost; margin is profit divided by selling price.
  • On the same profit, markup is always a larger percentage than margin.
  • Order A's price ladder runs FOB 3.20, landed cost 3.70, wholesale 8.00, shop price 19.90.
  • Delta Garments' own markup (8.8%) and margin (8.1%) sit close together because its profit is small.
  • Fairway Stores' own markup (148.8%) and margin (59.8%) sit far apart because its profit is large.
  • Margin can always be converted from markup using markup divided by one plus markup.
08Workplace scenario

A buyer at Northline Apparel asks Delta Garments to "match Fairway Stores' margin" without checking which figure was meant

Sara, the buyer at Northline Apparel, tells Karim at Delta Garments that "Fairway Stores runs on a 148.8% margin, so there should be room for the factory to accept a lower FOB price." Karim knows Order A's own figures well but wants to check Sara's number before responding, because he suspects it may not describe what she thinks it describes.

Here is the message Sara actually sent:

Note to Delta Garments. Fairway Stores' figure on Order A: 148.8%, described in our own retail team's report as "margin". Request: since the retailer's margin is so high, please review whether Delta Garments' FOB price of USD 3.20 has room to reduce.

Is Sara's figure actually Fairway Stores' margin, and does it support her request? Decide before opening the answer.

Show decision

No. The figure of 148.8% is Fairway Stores' own markup, not its margin. Two facts from this lesson decide it.

First, Fairway Stores' own margin on Order A is 59.8%, not 148.8%. The 148.8% figure comes from dividing its own profit of USD 11.90 by its own cost of USD 8.00, which is the markup formula. Its margin, profit divided by its own shop price of USD 19.90, is 59.8%.

Second, neither figure describes room in Delta Garments' own FOB price. Fairway Stores' own markup or margin is calculated entirely on its own wholesale cost of USD 8.00 and its own shop price of USD 19.90; it says nothing about whether Delta Garments' own USD 3.20 FOB price, which sits several steps lower on the ladder, has room to move.

Sara's note should be corrected to say "markup", and any request to Delta Garments about its own FOB price needs to be based on Delta Garments' own cost components, not on a retail figure taken from a different rung of the ladder.

09What it costs

What quoting the wrong figure costs a negotiation between Northline Apparel and Delta Garments

Using Order A's own fixed figures:

Fairway Stores' own margin, the figure Sara should have quoted: 59.8%
Fairway Stores' own markup, the figure Sara actually quoted: 148.8%
Difference between the two, in percentage points: 148.8 - 59.8 = 89.0 percentage points

An 89.0 percentage-point gap between what Sara believed and what Fairway Stores' figures actually show is large enough to send a request to Delta Garments built on a wrong impression of how much profit the retailer actually keeps. Correcting a mislabelled percentage after it has already reached a factory costs time and can damage trust between buyer and factory over a number that was wrong from the start, not because the underlying business was unfair.

10Working template

Retail profitability worksheet: calculate markup and margin side by side at every point on the ladder

Open the course workbook's "Markup and margin" sheet. It lists each point on Order A's own retail price ladder, with a column for cost, selling price, profit, markup and margin, all calculated automatically once the cost and selling price are entered. Use it to check any stated percentage before passing it on, by confirming which formula produced it.

[Download the Retail profitability worksheet](../../templates/T19-C01-retail-profitability-worksheet.xlsx)

Download the Retail profitability worksheet (Excel)

11Check yourself

1. A company's profit is USD 11.90 on a cost of USD 8.00. What is its markup?

2. A factory's markup on an order is 25%. Which of these statements about its margin must be true?

12Glossary
ENARFRTRMeaning
Markupالزيادة على التكلفةMajoration (marge sur coût)Kâr yüzdesi (markup)Profit divided by the cost, shown as a percentage of what a company paid.
MarginالهامشMargeMarjProfit divided by the selling price, shown as a percentage of what a company sells for.
FOB priceسعر التسليم على ظهر السفينةPrix FOBFOB fiyatıThe price the factory charges for the garment, delivered on board the ship at its own port.
Landed costالتكلفة بعد الوصولCoût renduTeslim maliyetiThe FOB price plus shipping and duty once goods reach the buyer's own country, USD 3.70 per piece on Order A.
Wholesale priceسعر الجملةPrix de grosToptan fiyatThe price a brand charges when it sells the finished goods on, for example to its own retail arm or another retailer.
Shop priceسعر المحلPrix boutique (prix de détail)Mağaza fiyatıThe price the customer pays at the till. Also called the retail price.
Retail price ladderسلم أسعار التجزئةÉchelle des prix de détailPerakende fiyat merdiveniThe sequence of separate selling prices a garment passes through, from the factory's FOB price to the shop price the final customer pays.
13Next

Lesson 1.3: Why a retailer plans open-to-buy before it plans a single style

You now know how markup and margin move together, but differently, at every point on a price ladder. The next lesson moves fully to the retail buyer's side and shows why a retailer sets a spending budget before choosing any single style to buy. Back to the course map

14Ladder

RecognizeTell markup and margin apart as two separate formulas on the same profit.
ConnectSee how markup and margin diverge further apart the higher up a price ladder they are measured.
CompareWeigh a markup figure against a margin figure without treating them as interchangeable.
DecideJudge whether a stated percentage actually supports a negotiating request before acting on it.