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Practitioner · Course 1: How Retail Makes Money · Lesson 5 of 5

Building a complete retail profitability worksheet

Level: FoundationTime: 45 minutesOrder used: A (the T-shirt, Cedar & Co.'s hybrid domestic buying, forecast plus reorder)Tool: Retail profitability worksheet
For a domestic retail buyer or planner who must bring margin, markup, open-to-buy and markdown together into one working record. You need lessons T19-C01-L01 through T19-C01-L04. Figures are teaching examples in US dollars.
RetailerCedar & Co., 12 shops, hybrid forecast plus reorder buying
Domestic orderEquivalent-value lot from Delta Garments, 15,000 pieces total
Season budgetUSD 120,000, USD 24,000 open-to-buy remaining before this style
Shop price and markdownUSD 19.90, 20% markdown on 4,000 pieces once sell-through slows
BuyerOmar, owner of Cedar & Co.
What this lesson measuresHow margin, markup, open-to-buy and markdown combine into one profitability picture for a single style
02Opening

This page explains how a retailer brings margin, markup, open-to-buy and markdown together into one worksheet for a single style

This page is for a domestic retail buyer or planner who has to judge a single style's own full profitability, not just one figure from it in isolation. At work, a buyer who checks only a style's own margin, without also checking open-to-buy and the risk of a later markdown, can approve a style that looks good on one measure and still lose money overall. This lesson mainly teaches the money flow: it combines the four earlier lessons of this course into one worksheet, using Cedar & Co.'s own hybrid buying of forecast plus reorder volume.

Cedar & Co. buys a style equivalent in value to Order A: 15,000 pieces bought partly against its own forecast and partly as a reorder once early sales confirm demand, a hybrid buying pattern. Omar must check the style's own margin, confirm it fits inside the remaining USD 24,000 open-to-buy, and estimate what a possible later markdown would still leave of the planned profit, all before treating the style as approved. Without this skill, a buyer signs off a style on one good number while three other numbers, checked separately, could each still turn it into a loss.

03Before you start

What you need, and what this lesson does not cover

You need: lessons T19-C01-L01 through T19-C01-L04, covering margin and markup, open-to-buy, and the cost of a markdown.

By the end of this lesson you can:

  • list the four figures a complete retail profitability check combines: margin, markup, open-to-buy, and markdown risk;
  • build a single style's own full profitability picture from Cedar & Co.'s own hybrid order;
  • state what a style's own worst-case profit looks like once a plausible markdown is included;
  • decide whether a style should be approved, resized, or rejected using all four figures together;
  • avoid approving a style on the strength of only one of the four figures.

Not covered here: any lesson beyond this course; Track 19's next course moves on from retail profitability to a different buying and brand-management skill.

04Key terms

Words you will meet in this lesson

TermMeaning
MarginProfit divided by the selling price, shown as a percentage of what a company sells for.
MarkupProfit divided by the cost, shown as a percentage of what a company paid.
Open-to-buyA retailer's season budget minus its committed spend: the amount still available to commit to any range.
MarkdownA reduction in the shop price of goods that have not sold as forecast, used to clear the remaining stock.
Sell-through rateThe share of stock actually sold within a planned period, used to judge whether a forecast was right.
Hybrid selling modelA brand that sells through more than one route to market at once, for example wholesale and its own direct retail, often at different prices.
05Teaching
The rule

A single style is only fully checked once its margin, its fit inside open-to-buy, and its markdown risk are all confirmed together

No single figure from the earlier lessons of this course is enough on its own to approve a style. A strong margin can still be unaffordable if it does not fit inside the remaining open-to-buy. A style that fits the budget can still disappoint if a plausible markdown, applied to even a modest share of its stock, removes most of its planned profit. A complete check combines all four figures, margin, markup, open-to-buy and markdown risk, into one picture before a style is approved.

Cedar & Co.'s own planned margin on this style, before any markdown: 11.90 / 19.90 = 59.8%
What you meet in real life

A complete profitability check looks different depending on how the order was booked and how demand actually plays out

A buyer meets several shapes of this combined check across a normal working year, and skipping any one figure in any of them can turn an apparently good style into a disappointing result.

What can differThe shapes you will meetWhy it matters
Hybrid forecast-plus-reorder buyingCedar & Co. commits part of its 15,000 pieces against its own forecast and holds the rest back as a reorder option once early sales confirm demand.The reorder portion can be cancelled or trimmed if early sell-through is weak, lowering markdown risk compared with committing the full quantity up front.
Fully pre-booked export buyingFairway Stores commits to the full quantity of an export order before the season starts, with no reorder option to adjust later.A fully pre-booked order carries higher markdown risk than a hybrid order, because none of the quantity can be trimmed if sell-through disappoints.
A style with strong margin but little open-to-buy roomA new style shows a 59.8% margin, equivalent to Fairway Stores' own figure, but the season's open-to-buy has almost none left.The margin alone cannot justify approval; the style must be resized, reallocated, or delayed to fit the remaining open-to-buy.
A style with comfortable open-to-buy but high markdown riskA style fits easily inside open-to-buy, but its category has a history of needing markdowns on a large share of stock.Comfortable budget room does not protect against a style's own markdown history; the worst-case profit must still be checked before approval.
The case we follow

Omar checks a single style against all four figures before approving Cedar & Co.'s hybrid order

Cedar & Co.'s style, equivalent in value to Order A, is planned at a shop price of USD 19.90 against a buying cost of USD 8.00, a margin of 59.8% and a markup of 148.8%. It requires USD 30,000 of the season's remaining USD 24,000 open-to-buy, a shortfall Omar resolves by committing only the forecast portion of 12,000 pieces up front (USD 24,000) and holding the remaining 3,000 pieces as a reorder option. Omar then checks the worst case: if sell-through is weak and 4,000 of the pieces eventually sold need a 20% markdown, what does the style's own profit look like.

Cedar & Co.'s style: four checks combined into one picture1. Margin: 59.8% (strong)2. Resized to fit open-to-buy: 12,000 pieces now, 3,000 as reorder12,000 committed3,000 reorder3. Planned profit at full price: USD 142,800 (12,000 x 11.90)4. Worst-case profit if 4,000 need a 20% markdown: USD 126,880
Each of the four checks adds a fact the others do not show. Margin alone said the style looked strong; only resizing against open-to-buy and testing a markdown scenario show what the style is actually worth committing to.
The worked number

Cedar & Co.'s own full profitability picture, from planned profit through to a worst-case markdown scenario

Planned profit on the committed 12,000 pieces at full price: 12,000 x 11.90 = USD 142,800
Markdown cost if 4,000 of those pieces later need a 20% markdown: 4,000 x 3.98 = USD 15,920
Worst-case profit after that markdown: 142,800 - 15,920 = USD 126,880
Worst-case profit as a share of the original planned profit: 126,880 / 142,800 = 88.9%

Even in the worst case modelled, Cedar & Co.'s style still keeps 88.9% of its planned profit, because the markdown affects only a third of the committed quantity, and the style already fits inside the season's own open-to-buy. This combined picture, not any single figure alone, is what actually supports Omar's decision to approve the style.

The method

Five steps to build one complete profitability check on any single style

  1. Calculate the style's own margin and markup from its buying cost and its planned shop price.
  2. Compare its required spend against the remaining open-to-buy, resizing or splitting the order as a hybrid forecast-plus-reorder commitment if it does not fit.
  3. Estimate a plausible markdown scenario: a share of pieces and a markdown percentage, based on the style's own category history.
  4. Calculate the worst-case profit after that markdown, and its share of the original planned profit.
  5. Decide whether to approve, resize, or reject the style using all four figures together, never any one alone.
The trap

A common mistake is approving a style on a strong margin alone, without testing open-to-buy fit and markdown risk

A common mistake is treating a style's own strong margin, such as 59.8%, as proof the style is worth buying, and skipping the open-to-buy and markdown checks that this course's earlier lessons cover separately. What this costs a retailer that gets it wrong is real: a style can pass the margin check easily and still overcommit the season budget, or still lose a meaningful share of its planned profit to a markdown that a full check would have anticipated and priced in from the start. A buyer who runs only one of the four checks has not actually completed a profitability review; the other three checks each carry their own separate risk that margin alone cannot reveal.

Partial check compared with the complete four-part checkMargin alone: "59.8%, approve"Looks complete, is notComplete check: margin, open-to-buy fit, worst-case profit 88.9%MarginOTB fitWorst case
The margin-alone check looks finished but is missing two-thirds of the picture. The complete check adds the open-to-buy resizing and the worst-case markdown profit before the style is actually approved.
06In plain words

A single style is not properly checked until four separate figures are looked at together: its own margin and markup, whether its cost fits inside the season's remaining open-to-buy, and what a plausible markdown would still leave of its planned profit. A strong margin on its own proves nothing about whether the budget can afford the style, and a style that fits the budget can still lose much of its profit to a markdown if that risk is never estimated in advance. Building all four figures into one worksheet, for one style at a time, is what turns four separate lessons into one usable buying decision.

07Quick check
  • A complete profitability check combines margin, markup, open-to-buy fit, and markdown risk.
  • A strong margin alone does not confirm a style fits inside the season's remaining open-to-buy.
  • Hybrid forecast-plus-reorder buying can be resized to fit open-to-buy by holding back the reorder portion.
  • A worst-case markdown scenario should be estimated before a style is approved, not only after sell-through disappoints.
  • Cedar & Co.'s style keeps 88.9% of its planned profit even in the modelled worst case, because both the budget and the markdown risk were checked in advance.
  • Running only one of the four checks is not a complete profitability review.
08Workplace scenario

Omar's buying team asks whether the style can be approved at its full original quantity after all four checks

Cedar & Co.'s buying team reviews the style and reports back to Omar: margin 59.8%, but the full 15,000-piece quantity needs USD 30,000 against only USD 24,000 of remaining open-to-buy, and a worst-case 20% markdown on 4,000 pieces would still leave 88.9% of planned profit on the resized, 12,000-piece committed order.

Here is the team's own summary note:

Style review summary. Margin: 59.8%. Full quantity required: USD 30,000 against USD 24,000 open-to-buy. Resized commitment: 12,000 pieces (USD 24,000), 3,000 pieces held as reorder. Worst-case profit on the resized commitment after a modelled 20% markdown on 4,000 pieces: USD 126,880, 88.9% of planned profit. Question: approve at the full original 15,000-piece quantity, or hold at the resized 12,000?

Should Omar approve the full original quantity, or hold at the resized commitment? Decide before opening the answer.

Show decision

Hold at the resized, 12,000-piece commitment. Two facts in the team's own note decide this.

First, the full 15,000-piece quantity does not fit the remaining open-to-buy. It needs USD 30,000 against only USD 24,000 available, a USD 6,000 shortfall that a strong 59.8% margin does not remove, exactly as lesson T19-C01-L03 showed.

Second, the resized commitment already has a tested worst case. At 12,000 pieces, the style keeps 88.9% of its planned profit even if 4,000 pieces need a 20% markdown; the reorder portion of 3,000 pieces can be added later only if early sell-through justifies it, without ever risking money the season budget does not have.

Approving the full 15,000-piece quantity now would repeat the open-to-buy shortfall this course's third lesson already warned against, for a style whose worst-case profit has only been tested at the resized, 12,000-piece level.

09What it costs

What approving the full quantity, against the tested advice, would risk

Using this lesson's own figures:

Open-to-buy shortfall if the full 15,000-piece quantity is approved: 30,000 - 24,000 = USD 6,000
Worst-case profit already confirmed at the resized, 12,000-piece level: USD 126,880
Worst-case profit at the full, untested 15,000-piece level, if the same 20% markdown rate applied to a proportionally larger 5,000 pieces: (15,000 x 11.90) - (5,000 x 3.98) = 178,500 - 19,900 = USD 158,600

Approving the full quantity without first securing the extra USD 6,000 of open-to-buy risks committing money the season budget does not currently have, even though the larger order's own worst-case profit of USD 158,600 would still be a larger absolute number. A retailer that repeatedly commits beyond its own open-to-buy, chasing a larger absolute profit, is the exact mistake lesson T19-C01-L03 warned against.

10Working template

Retail profitability worksheet: the complete sheet that brings all four checks together

Open the course workbook's "Complete profitability" sheet. It draws in the margin and markup from the "Markup and margin" sheet, the remaining open-to-buy from the "Open-to-buy" sheet, and a markdown scenario from the "Markdown impact" sheet, calculating a single style's own worst-case profit automatically. Use it as the final check before approving, resizing, or rejecting any style.

[Download the Retail profitability worksheet](../../templates/T19-C01-retail-profitability-worksheet.xlsx)

Download the Retail profitability worksheet (Excel)

11Check yourself

1. A style shows a strong 55% margin. What else must be checked before it can be approved?

2. A style needs USD 40,000 against USD 35,000 of remaining open-to-buy. Its margin is a strong 62%. Can it be approved at its full quantity?

12Glossary
ENARFRTRMeaning
MarginالهامشMargeMarjProfit divided by the selling price, shown as a percentage of what a company sells for.
Markupالزيادة على التكلفةMajoration (marge sur coût)Kâr yüzdesi (markup)Profit divided by the cost, shown as a percentage of what a company paid.
Open-to-buyالرصيد المتاح للشراءBudget disponible (open-to-buy)Alıma açık bütçe (open-to-buy)A retailer's season budget minus its committed spend: the amount still available to commit to any range.
Markdownتخفيض السعرDémarqueİndirim (markdown)A reduction in the shop price of goods that have not sold as forecast, used to clear the remaining stock.
Sell-through rateمعدل البيع الفعليTaux d'écoulementSatış oranıThe share of stock actually sold within a planned period, used to judge whether a forecast was right.
Hybrid selling modelنموذج بيع مختلطModèle de vente hybrideKarma satış modeliA brand that sells through more than one route to market at once, for example wholesale and its own direct retail, often at different prices.
13Next

Course 2 of Track 19 begins next

This completes Course 1 of Track 19. You now have every piece needed to read a retail buyer's own profitability worksheet from open-to-buy through to a marked-down final result. Back to the course map

14Ladder

RecognizeTell a partial, single-figure profitability check apart from a complete, four-figure one.
ConnectSee how margin, open-to-buy and markdown risk each add a fact the others do not show.
CompareWeigh a style's absolute worst-case profit against whether its required spend actually fits the season budget.
DecideJudge whether a style should be approved in full, resized, or held back, using all four figures together.