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Practitioner · Course 1: Retail Maths · Lesson 1 of 5

The core retail maths every buyer and planner uses every day

Level: FoundationTime: 45 minutesOrder used: A (the T-shirt, Northline Apparel export order, resold wholesale to Fairway Stores)Tool: Retail maths reference workbook
For a buyer, retail planner, or new entrant to retail who needs the small set of calculations used every week to judge how a style is trading. No previous lesson needed. Figures are teaching examples in US dollars.
FactoryDelta Garments
Export orderOrder A, 15,000 T-shirts, FOB USD 3.20, landed cost USD 3.70
Retail buyerFairway Stores, buys wholesale at USD 8.00
Shop priceUSD 19.90, Fairway Stores' own shop price
Season checkpointWeek 6: 9,000 of 15,000 pieces sold, illustrative figures
What this lesson measuresThe five calculations a buyer runs every week on the same style
02Opening

This page explains the five calculations a buyer or planner runs on almost every style, every week, and why each one answers a different question

This page is for a buyer, a retail planner, or anyone new to retail who needs to read a single style's own trading week and say, in plain numbers, whether it is doing well. This lesson mainly teaches the money flow: it introduces margin, markup, sell-through rate, stock cover and average selling price as one connected set of tools, each answering a question the others cannot.

Fairway Stores buys Order A wholesale from Northline Apparel at USD 8.00 per piece and sells it at its own shop price of USD 19.90. Knowing that single pair of numbers is not enough to run a buying desk. A buyer also needs to know how fast the style is selling, how long the remaining stock will last, and what price customers are actually paying once some pieces go on markdown. Without these five calculations together, a buyer sees only a snapshot of the price ladder, never the season actually moving through the shops.

03Before you start

What you need, and what this lesson does not cover

You need: no previous lesson. A basic idea of what a percentage is, and Order A's own fixed chain (FOB USD 3.20, landed cost USD 3.70, wholesale USD 8.00, shop price USD 19.90), are enough to start.

By the end of this lesson you can:

  • name the five core calculations a buyer runs on one style, and the question each answers;
  • calculate Fairway Stores' own margin, markup, sell-through rate, stock cover and average selling price from one week of illustrative sales;
  • explain why margin and markup are never the same number on the same sale;
  • read sell-through rate together with stock cover to judge whether a style trades to plan;
  • state why average selling price can sit below shop price before a season ends.

Not covered here: sell-through rate and stock cover across a whole season (lesson T20-C01-L02), markup, margin and average selling price in depth (lesson T20-C01-L03), and like-for-like growth (lesson T20-C01-L04).

04Key terms

Words you will meet in this lesson

TermMeaning
MarginProfit divided by the selling price, shown as a percentage of what a company sells for.
MarkupProfit divided by the cost, shown as a percentage of what a company paid.
Sell-through rateThe share of stock actually sold within a planned period, used to judge whether a forecast was right.
Stock coverThe number of weeks a brand's current stock is expected to last before it runs out, given its normal sales rate.
Average selling priceThe total money taken from a style's sales divided by the number of pieces sold, once full-price and markdown sales are both counted.
05Teaching
The rule

A buyer reads five separate calculations on the same style, and each one answers a question the other four cannot

Margin, markup, sell-through rate, stock cover and average selling price are five separate calculations, and no single one of them tells a buyer everything. Margin and markup both describe profit, but against two different bases, cost or selling price. Sell-through rate and stock cover both describe how fast stock is moving, but one looks backward at what has already sold and the other looks forward at what remains. Average selling price shows what customers actually paid once markdowns are mixed in with full-price sales, which neither margin nor markup shows on its own. A buyer who only ever checks one of the five is reading half the season.

Fairway Stores' own margin on Order A: 11.90 / 19.90 = 59.8%
What you meet in real life

The same five calculations appear in every buying desk's weekly routine, whatever the order looks like

What can differThe shapes you will meetWhy it matters
Export order sold wholesale to a department-store chainFairway Stores buys Order A wholesale from Northline Apparel at USD 8.00 and tracks margin, sell-through and stock cover on its own shop price of USD 19.90 every week.The buyer's own margin and markup are fixed once the buying price is set, but sell-through, stock cover and average selling price change every week as the season runs.
A domestic buyer sourcing straight from the factoryA local brand such as Cedar & Co. buys directly from Delta Garments on open account, skipping the wholesale step, and runs the same five calculations against its own shop price.Fewer steps in the buying chain still leave the same five questions to answer: profit against cost, profit against price, speed of sale, weeks of cover, and actual price paid.
A style still selling only at full price early in the seasonIn the first few weeks after Order A reaches the shops, every piece sells at the full shop price of USD 19.90, so average selling price equals the shop price exactly.Average selling price only drops below the shop price once markdown sales begin, which a buyer must watch for separately from margin and markup.
A style already carrying some markdown stock mid-seasonBy week six, some of Order A's pieces have already been marked down to clear slower sizes, so average selling price sits below the shop price even though the shop price itself has not changed for every piece.A buyer who only checks the shop price, and never the average selling price, overstates how much money the season is actually bringing in.
The case we follow

Fairway Stores checks all five calculations on Order A at the end of week six of the season

Fairway Stores buys the full 15,000 pieces of Order A from Northline Apparel at USD 8.00 per piece and sets its own shop price at USD 19.90. By the end of week six, Fairway Stores has sold 9,000 of the 15,000 pieces at illustrative sales figures kept for teaching purposes only. Of those 9,000 pieces, 8,200 sold at the full shop price and 800 sold at a markdown price of USD 15.92, a price reduction used to clear slower sizes. Fairway Stores' own buying team pulls all five calculations from this one checkpoint to decide whether the style needs a markdown across more stores or is still trading to plan.

Order A at Fairway Stores, week 6: 15,000 pieces totalSold full price 8,200Markdown 800Remaining stock 6,000
Fairway Stores has sold 9,000 of the 15,000 pieces by week six, most of them at full price. The remaining 6,000 pieces are the stock a buyer must judge with sell-through rate and stock cover together.
The worked number

All five calculations, run once on the same week-six checkpoint

Fairway Stores' own margin: (19.90 - 8.00) / 19.90 = 59.8%
Fairway Stores' own markup: (19.90 - 8.00) / 8.00 = 148.8%
Sell-through rate at week six: 9,000 / 15,000 = 60.0%
Weekly sales rate over the first six weeks: 9,000 / 6 = 1,500 pieces a week
Stock cover on the remaining 6,000 pieces: 6,000 / 1,500 = 4.0 weeks
Average selling price: (8,200 x 19.90 + 800 x 15.92) / 9,000 = USD 19.55

Margin and markup describe the same USD 11.90 of profit against two different bases and will never match. Sell-through of 60.0% and stock cover of 4.0 weeks describe the same 6,000 remaining pieces from two directions, one backward-looking and one forward-looking. Average selling price of USD 19.55 already sits below the USD 19.90 shop price, because 800 pieces have already sold at a markdown.

The method

Five steps to read any style's own trading week

  1. Identify the style's own cost and its own selling price for margin and markup.
  2. Divide profit by selling price for margin, then divide the same profit by cost for markup.
  3. Divide pieces sold by the total order quantity for sell-through rate.
  4. Divide remaining stock by the recent weekly sales rate for stock cover.
  5. Divide total money taken by total pieces sold, across full-price and markdown sales together, for average selling price.
The trap

A common mistake is checking only one or two of the five calculations and missing what the others would have shown

A common mistake is reading margin or sell-through rate alone and stopping there. A style can show a healthy 59.8% margin on paper while its stock cover of 4.0 weeks quietly signals that the remaining pieces will not clear before the season ends, unless the sales rate improves or more stock is marked down. What this costs a buyer who checks only margin is real: a decision to hold the shop price steady, made without looking at stock cover, can leave thousands of pieces unsold at season end, at which point a much deeper markdown becomes necessary than if action had been taken at week six. All five calculations must be read together, not picked from selectively, or a style's real position in the season stays hidden.

What each buyer sees at week sixChecks margin onlySees 59.8% margin, misses the 4.0-week stock cover warningChecks all five calculationsSees margin, sell-through 60%, cover 4.0 weeks, ASP 19.55
A buyer who checks only margin sees a healthy number and stops. A buyer who checks all five sees the same margin plus a stock cover figure that signals a decision is needed.
06In plain words

A buyer runs five small calculations on the same style every week. Two of them, margin and markup, describe the same profit measured against two different starting points, the selling price and the cost. Two more, sell-through rate and stock cover, describe the same remaining stock from two different directions, how much has already sold and how many weeks the rest will last at the current pace. The fifth, average selling price, shows what customers actually paid once full-price and reduced-price sales are mixed together. None of the five replaces any of the others, and a buyer who checks only one is working with an incomplete picture of the season.

07Quick check
  • Margin is profit divided by selling price; markup is profit divided by cost; the two never match on the same sale.
  • Sell-through rate is pieces sold divided by the total order quantity, usually shown as a percentage.
  • Stock cover is remaining stock divided by the recent weekly sales rate, shown in weeks.
  • Average selling price falls below the shop price as soon as any pieces sell at a markdown.
  • A healthy margin on its own says nothing about whether stock will clear before the season ends.
08Workplace scenario

A buyer at Fairway Stores reports only margin to management at the week-six trading review and is asked for the rest of the picture

Fairway Stores holds a trading review at the end of week six on Order A. The buyer preparing the report has the full checkpoint data: 9,000 of 15,000 pieces sold, 800 of those at a markdown price of USD 15.92, and 6,000 pieces remaining. The buyer's first draft of the report states only the margin.

Here is the note the buyer first prepared:

Week-six trading note, Order A. Margin remains healthy at 59.8%, calculated on the shop price of USD 19.90 against the wholesale cost of USD 8.00. No further action recommended this week.

Is this note enough for management to judge how the season is actually going? Decide before opening the answer.

Show decision

No, the note is not enough on its own. Two facts missing from the buyer's note decide this.

First, margin never moves during a season on the same wholesale cost and the same full shop price, so reporting it alone tells management nothing new about how week six is trading. The margin of 59.8% would read exactly the same whether the season is selling out early or barely moving.

Second, the sell-through rate of 60.0% and the stock cover of 4.0 weeks are the numbers that actually describe week six. With 6,000 pieces remaining and a weekly sales rate of 1,500 pieces, the stock will clear in about four more weeks if the current pace holds; if the season has more than four weeks left to run, management needs to know now, not later, whether a markdown decision is coming.

The corrected note should report sell-through rate, stock cover and average selling price alongside margin, since only those three actually change from one trading review to the next.

09What it costs

What an incomplete trading report costs a buying team's own decision timing

Using Order A's own fixed figures and the week-six checkpoint:

Money taken from full-price sales: 8,200 x 19.90 = USD 163,180
Money taken from markdown sales: 800 x 15.92 = USD 12,736
Total money taken by week six: 163,180 + 12,736 = USD 175,916
Share of the 15,000-piece order still unsold and untracked by a margin-only report: 6,000 / 15,000 = 40.0%

Forty percent of Order A's own pieces sit outside what a margin-only report actually describes, since margin never changes while sell-through, stock cover and average selling price move every week. A buying team that reports margin alone and misses a stock cover warning by even one trading review risks reaching week ten or twelve with several thousand pieces still unsold, at which point a deeper, more costly markdown becomes the only remaining option.

10Working template

Retail maths reference workbook: record all five calculations from one checkpoint in one place

Open the course workbook's "Core retail maths" sheet. It lists a style's own cost, selling price, order quantity, pieces sold, remaining stock and weeks elapsed, then calculates margin, markup, sell-through rate, stock cover and average selling price automatically from those inputs. Enter a different style's own weekly checkpoint to see how the same five calculations apply to any order.

[Download the Retail maths reference workbook](../../templates/T20-C01-retail-maths-reference-workbook.xlsx)

Download the Retail maths reference workbook (Excel)

11Check yourself

1. Fairway Stores' margin on Order A stays at 59.8% for the whole season while the season is trading. What does this tell a buyer about how the season is actually going?

2. A style has an order quantity of 12,000 pieces. By week four, 4,800 pieces have sold. What is the sell-through rate, and what weekly sales rate does it imply?

12Glossary
ENARFRTRMeaning
MarginالهامشMargeMarjProfit divided by the selling price, shown as a percentage of what a company sells for.
Markupالزيادة على التكلفةMajoration (marge sur coût)Kâr yüzdesi (markup)Profit divided by the cost, shown as a percentage of what a company paid.
Sell-through rateمعدل البيع الفعليTaux d'écoulementSatış oranıThe share of stock actually sold within a planned period, used to judge whether a forecast was right.
Stock coverتغطية المخزونCouverture de stockStok kapsama süresiThe number of weeks a brand's current stock is expected to last before it runs out, given its normal sales rate.
Average selling priceمتوسط سعر البيعPrix de vente moyenOrtalama satış fiyatıThe total money taken from a style's sales divided by the number of pieces sold, once full-price and markdown sales are both counted.
13Next

Lesson 1.2: Calculating sell-through and stock cover from real sales

You now know the five calculations a buyer runs every week. The next lesson takes two of them, sell-through rate and stock cover, and shows how a factory reads the same numbers to decide whether a reorder is coming. Back to the course map

14Ladder

RecognizeName the five core retail calculations a buyer runs on the same style every week.
ConnectSee how margin, markup, sell-through rate, stock cover and average selling price all draw on the same checkpoint data.
CompareWeigh a margin-only report against a report that includes all five calculations.
DecideJudge whether a week-six checkpoint on Order A calls for further action.