Course contents
Foundation · Course 7: Money in the Apparel Business · Lesson 1 of 5

How the price of a garment is built from fabric to margin, stage by stage

Level: FoundationTime: 45 minutesOrder used: A (the T-shirt)Tool: Costing sheet
This lesson is for anyone new to costing in the apparel and textile trade: a merchandiser, a factory owner, a buyer, or a student. No previous lesson is needed, though Course 1 explains where a garment's price sits in the wider chain of companies. Money figures are teaching examples in US dollars. At work, use the real numbers of your own order.
BuyerNorthline Apparel (overseas clothing brand)
FactoryDelta Garments (garment factory)
ProductBasic cotton T-shirt, one colour
Quantity15,000 pieces
FOB priceUSD 3.20 per piece
Delivery termsFOB, factory's own port
02Opening

This page explains how a garment's price is built, component by component, for anyone who reads or prepares a costing sheet

A price on a costing sheet looks like one number. It is not. Every price a factory quotes is five separate amounts, added together in a fixed order: what the fabric cost, what the trims cost, what the labour cost, what the factory's overhead cost, and what the factory kept as profit. A merchandiser who cannot separate these five is stuck trusting the bottom line, and cannot tell a buyer why the price is what it is, or find where a saving is actually possible.

This lesson teaches you the five components, in order, and what each one covers. It uses the same T-shirt order this course already follows, Order A, whose price of USD 3.20 was fixed in Course 1. Here you learn to read that same price as a stack, and to work out what share of the price each component is. The lesson mainly teaches the money flow: how a price is built up, piece by piece, rather than how the goods move or who owns them.

03Before you start

What you need, and what this lesson does not cover

You need: nothing but this page. Course 1's lesson 1.3 already fixed Order A's price at USD 3.20; you do not need to recalculate it here.

By the end of this lesson you can:

  • name the five cost components that stack up to a garment's FOB price, in the order they stack;
  • explain what each component covers, in plain words;
  • calculate any one component's share of the total price;
  • explain why a large-looking cost is not always the easiest one to negotiate down.

Not covered here: how each component is calculated line by line (lesson 7.2), the difference between margin and markup (lesson 7.3), and how payment terms affect cash flow (lesson 7.4).

04Key terms

Words you will meet in this lesson

TermMeaning
FOB priceThe price the factory charges for the garment, delivered on board the ship at its own port. Order A's FOB price is USD 3.20.
Fabric costThe cost of the fabric used in one garment, driven by the fabric price per kilogram and how much fabric one piece consumes.
TrimsEverything sewn onto or attached to a garment besides the main fabric: labels, buttons, zips, thread.
Making chargeThe labour cost of cutting, sewing and finishing one garment. Also called CMT (cut, make and trim) cost when quoted on its own.
OverheadThe factory's running costs, shared across every order it makes: rent, electricity, management salaries, machine depreciation.
ProfitWhat the factory keeps after every other cost is paid. The only component that is a deliberate decision, not a pass-through cost.
Costing sheetThe document that lists a garment's cost components and adds them to the price the factory quotes.
Share of priceOne component's cost divided by the total price, usually shown as a percentage.
05Teaching
The rule

A garment's price is five separate, checkable components stacked in order, not one number a factory picks

A factory does not choose a price and work backward. It adds up five components, always in the same order: fabric, trims, making, overhead, profit. Each one is a separate, checkable, negotiable amount. Fabric and trims are what the factory paid to buy materials. Making and overhead are what it cost the factory to turn those materials into a finished garment. Profit is what the factory decided to keep. Order A's own costing, fixed in lesson 1.3, already shows the five numbers: fabric 1.15, trims 0.20, making 1.10, overhead 0.49, profit 0.26, adding to an FOB price of USD 3.20.

1. Fabric2. Trims3. Making4. Overhead5. Profit
Five components, always stacked in the same order. Fabric and trims are bought; making and overhead are the cost of turning them into a garment; profit is what the factory keeps.
What you meet in real life

The five components are fixed, but how big each one is changes from style to style

The five components never change. What changes from one style, one order or one factory to the next is how large each component is, and how it is driven. Here are the shapes you will meet most often.

What can differThe shapes you will meetWhy it matters to you
Fabric's share of priceFor most simple styles, fabric is the largest single component, often a third or more of the price (Order A: about 36%). For a heavily embellished or trim-heavy style, trims can take a much bigger share.Fabric price per kilogram and consumption per piece usually move the total price more than any other single input.
Making charge, by product complexityA basic T-shirt has a low making charge because it has few seams. A jacket with linings, pockets and multiple closures has a much higher making charge for the same fabric cost.Two garments with identical fabric can have very different FOB prices once making charge is added.
Overhead, by factory scale and utilisationA large factory running near full capacity spreads its fixed costs (rent, machinery, management) over more pieces, so overhead per piece is lower. A small or under-booked factory carries a higher overhead per piece.A factory quoting a higher price is not always less efficient; it may simply have fewer pieces to spread its overhead across.
Profit margin, by order type and relationshipA new, small or risky order often carries a higher profit margin to compensate the factory for the extra risk. A large, repeat order from a trusted buyer, like Order A, often carries a lower, steadier margin.Profit is the one component a factory sets deliberately; it is the natural place a buyer and factory negotiate, not the place to expect a "true cost".
Domestic versus export pricingAn export order (like Order A, sold FOB to Northline Apparel) prices fabric, trims, making and overhead the same way as a domestic order, but usually adds no local sales tax to the factory's own price; a domestic order sold to a local brand like Cedar & Co. may include different terms in the same five-part stack.The five components stay the same across export and domestic business; only the terms wrapped around the price change.

Product families outside apparel keep the same five-component logic. A towel or a bedsheet still stacks fabric, trims (thread, labels, tags), making, overhead and profit; only fabric consumption and making complexity look different from a T-shirt.

The case we follow

Order A's fixed costing shows all five components in Order A's own numbers

This course follows Order A: 15,000 basic cotton T-shirts that Delta Garments makes for Northline Apparel. Lesson 1.3 already fixed how Order A's FOB price of USD 3.20 breaks down. This lesson re-presents the same five numbers specifically as a stack, so you can see what share of the total price each one is.

ComponentOrder A amount (USD per piece)What it covers in Order A
Fabric1.15Knitted cotton jersey fabric bought from Colorline Dyeing
Trims0.20Labels, thread and other small items bought from Trimco
Making1.10Delta Garments' cutting, sewing and finishing labour
Overhead0.49Delta Garments' rent, electricity and management, shared across all its orders
Profit0.26What Delta Garments keeps after the other four costs
Total FOB price3.20What Northline Apparel pays Delta Garments per piece
The worked number

Fabric is about 36% of Order A's price, by far the largest single share

To find fabric's share of Order A's price, divide the fabric cost by the total FOB price and multiply by 100.

1.15 ÷ 3.20 = 0.359375

That is about 36% of the price. No other component comes close: making is the next largest at about a third, and trims is the smallest at about 6%.

Order A, FOB price USD 3.20 per T-shirt Fabric 1.15 Trims 0.20 Making 1.10 Overhead 0.49 Profit 0.26
Fabric alone is about a third of Order A's price. The bar's width shows each component's true share; fabric's block is the widest of the five.
The method

Four steps to find any cost component's share of a garment's price

  1. Confirm the component's own dollar value from the costing sheet, not an estimate.
  2. Confirm the total price it sits inside, the same currency and the same per-piece basis.
  3. Divide the component by the total, and multiply by 100 to get a percentage.
  4. Compare that share across all five components to see which one actually drives the price most.
The trap

A common mistake is assuming the biggest-looking number is always the one most worth negotiating

Overhead (USD 0.49) looks bigger than trims (USD 0.20) on Order A's costing sheet, so it is tempting to target overhead first when looking for a saving. But overhead is usually fixed factory-wide, shared across every order the factory runs, and hard for a single order to change. A trims supplier switch, by contrast, can sometimes be negotiated order by order. Share of price tells you the size of a cost. It does not tell you how movable that cost actually is, and treating the two as the same thing sends a merchandiser after the wrong saving.

06In plain words

A garment's price is not one number. It is five costs added together, always in the same order: fabric, trims, making, overhead, profit. Each one can be checked and questioned on its own. On Order A, fabric is about a third of the price, the biggest single share, because fabric price and how much fabric one piece uses both matter a lot. To find any cost's share, divide it by the total price and multiply by 100. A cost being large does not mean it is easy to negotiate down; some large costs, like overhead, are shared across every order and hard to move, while a smaller cost tied to one order can sometimes be changed.

07Quick check
  • A garment's price is always five components, in this order: fabric, trims, making, overhead, profit.
  • Fabric is usually the largest single component, often a third or more of the price.
  • To find a component's share of price: divide the component by the total, multiply by 100.
  • Making charge rises with a garment's complexity, not just with its size.
  • Overhead is shared across every order a factory runs, so one order rarely moves it much.
  • Profit is the one component the factory sets on purpose; the rest are pass-through costs.
08Workplace scenario

A new merchandiser sees Order A's costing sheet and suggests overhead is the biggest saving opportunity, since USD 0.49 is the second-largest number after fabric

A new merchandiser at Delta Garments is shown Order A's costing sheet for the first time. Looking down the column of numbers, they notice overhead at USD 0.49 is the second-largest figure, bigger than making at first glance would suggest and much bigger than trims at USD 0.20. They suggest to their manager that overhead is where the factory should look first for a saving on this order.

Here is the costing sheet they are looking at:

Order A costing sheet (per piece, USD). Fabric 1.15. Trims 0.20. Making 1.10. Overhead 0.49. Profit 0.26. Total FOB price 3.20.

Does the biggest-looking number on a costing sheet automatically mean the biggest realistic saving opportunity? Decide before you open the answer.

Show decision

Not necessarily. Overhead is usually the least realistic of the larger costs to cut on a single order. Two facts decide this together.

First, what overhead actually is. Overhead is Delta Garments' rent, electricity and management cost, shared across everything the factory makes, not something bought fresh for Order A. Cutting overhead on this one order would mean changing how the whole factory runs, which one order's merchandiser cannot do alone.

Second, what a smaller-looking cost can be. Trims, at USD 0.20, is much smaller than overhead in dollar terms, but it is specific to this order: it was bought from one supplier (Trimco) for this order's labels and thread. A trims supplier switch, or a small change to the trim specification, can sometimes be negotiated order by order, in a way overhead cannot.

Share of price tells a merchandiser the size of a cost. It does not tell them how movable that cost is. The new merchandiser's instinct to look at the biggest number first is reasonable, but the better question is which cost is actually within this order's control.

09What it costs

What fabric's outsized share means for Order A's price sensitivity

Using the worked share from block 05: fabric alone is roughly 36% of Order A's price (USD 1.15 of USD 3.20). Trims, at USD 0.20, is about 6% of the same price.

Fabric's share: 1.15 ÷ 3.20 = 0.36 (about 36%)
Trims' share: 0.20 ÷ 3.20 = 0.0625 (about 6%)

Because fabric is such a large share, even a small percentage change in fabric price per kilogram moves the total FOB price by more than an equivalent percentage change in a smaller component like trims. A merchandiser who wants to protect Order A's margin should watch fabric price movements first, since that single input has roughly six times the weight of trims in the final price.

10Working template

Costing sheet: read Order A's own calculated shares, then work out yours

Open the Costing sheet workbook linked below. Its one sheet, "Costing", lists Order A's five components, its amount for each, and a share-of-price column calculated by formula, not typed in: fabric 1.15 of 3.20, trims 0.20, making 1.10, overhead 0.49, profit 0.26. Read that column first; fabric's share should read close to 36%, matching block 05.

Then fill in the yellow "Your order" column with your own five numbers. Its "your share of price" column is also a formula, so it recalculates the moment you type a number in.

[Download: Costing sheet](templates/T01-C07-costing-sheet.xlsx)

Download the Costing sheet (Excel)

11Check yourself

1. What are the five cost components that stack up to Order A's FOB price, in the order they stack?

2. What is fabric's approximate share of Order A's USD 3.20 FOB price?

3. A different order has a total FOB price of USD 5.00, with trims costing USD 0.40. What is trims' share of that order's price?

12Glossary
ENARFRTRMeaning
FOB priceسعر التسليم على ظهر السفينةPrix FOBFOB fiyatıThe price the factory charges for the garment, delivered on board the ship at its own port.
Fabric costتكلفة القماشCoût du tissuKumaş maliyetiThe cost of the fabric used in one garment, driven by fabric price per kilogram and consumption per piece.
TrimsالإكسسواراتFournitures (accessoires)Aksesuar (yardımcı malzeme)Everything sewn onto or attached to a garment besides the main fabric: labels, buttons, zips, thread.
Making chargeتكلفة التصنيعCoût de façonİşçilik (fason) maliyetiThe labour cost of cutting, sewing and finishing one garment.
Overheadالتكاليف العامةFrais générauxGenel giderlerThe factory's running costs, shared across every order it makes: rent, electricity, management.
ProfitالربحProfitKârThe money left over after all costs are paid, out of a selling price.
Costing sheetكشف التكلفةFiche de coûtsMaliyet tablosuThe document that lists a garment's cost components and adds them to the price the factory quotes.
Share of priceنسبة السعرPart du prixFiyat payıOne cost component's dollar value divided by the total price, usually shown as a percentage.
13Next

Lesson 7.2: Costing a garment: fabric, trims, making charge, overhead and profit

You now know the five components that stack up to a price and roughly how big each one is. The next lesson goes inside each component and shows how a merchandiser actually calculates it, line by line, before the costing sheet is ever shown to a buyer. Back to the course map

14Ladder

RecognizeName the five cost components that stack up to a garment's price, in order.
ConnectSee how fabric's share of price relates to its outsized effect on the total.
CompareTell a large but fixed cost like overhead from a smaller but order-specific cost like trims.
DecideJudge whether a cost's size or its movability makes it the better negotiation target.