This page is for an agent or buyer who commits new stock to a factory through an agent and has to check the whole cost of that commitment against open-to-buy, not only the price of the goods themselves. At work, a buyer who checks only the goods value against open-to-buy can approve a commitment that looks affordable, then discover the agent's own commission pushes the true cost beyond what remains. This lesson mainly teaches the money flow: it shows how an agent's commission is added to a commitment's own goods value before that commitment is checked against open-to-buy.
Fairway Stores has USD 20,000 of open-to-buy remaining for its T-shirt category. Northline Apparel, which sells through a hybrid model of wholesale to retailers such as Fairway Stores and its own direct shops, proposes committing 2,500 pieces of Order A at USD 8.00 per piece through Meridian Sourcing, an agent that charges a 5% commission on the order value. Without this skill, a buyer might check only the USD 20,000 goods value against the USD 20,000 open-to-buy, miss the commission entirely, and commit to spend the retailer does not actually have room for.
You need: lesson T20-C02-L01, which shows how open-to-buy is calculated as a season budget minus committed spend.
By the end of this lesson you can:
Not covered here: assembling open-to-buy and the WSSI into one complete worksheet (lesson T20-C02-L05).
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Open-to-buy | A retailer's season budget minus its committed spend: the amount still available to commit to any range. |
| Agent | An independent business that is paid a commission for arranging or managing an order on behalf of whichever side hired it. |
| Commission | A payment to an agent, normally a percentage of the order value, agreed in advance in the agency agreement. |
| Hybrid selling model | A brand that sells through more than one route to market at once, for example wholesale and its own direct retail, often at different prices. |
| Committed spend | The value of purchase orders a retailer has already confirmed against its season budget. |
| Wholesale price | The price a brand charges when it sells the finished goods on, for example to a retailer such as Fairway Stores. |
A retailer checks a new commitment against its remaining open-to-buy using the commitment's own total cost, not only the price of the goods themselves. When an agent arranges the order, that agent's own commission is a real cost of committing the stock, and it has to be added to the goods value before the check is made. A commitment that looks exactly affordable on goods value alone can still overbuy against open-to-buy once its own attached commission is properly counted in full.
A buyer meets several shapes of commitment cost across a normal working year, and checking the full cost correctly in each one stops an agent's own fee, or another attached cost, from being missed against open-to-buy.
| What can differ | The shapes you will meet | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| A commitment arranged directly with the factory | Northline Apparel commits directly with Delta Garments for part of Order A, with no agent involved. | The goods value alone is the full cost to check against open-to-buy, since no commission is attached. |
| A commitment arranged through an agent | Meridian Sourcing arranges a commitment with Delta Garments on Fairway Stores' behalf, adding a 5% commission. | The commission is a real cost of the commitment and must be added to the goods value before the open-to-buy check. |
| A hybrid selling model with more than one route to market | Northline Apparel sells the same style wholesale to Fairway Stores and through its own direct shops, often at different prices. | Each route's own commitment is checked against that route's own open-to-buy; a wholesale commitment does not draw down a direct-shop budget. |
| A domestic commitment with no agent | Cedar & Co. commits directly with Delta Garments for a domestic reorder, with no agent or commission involved. | A domestic Make to Stock commitment is usually simpler to check, since goods value alone is normally its full cost. |
Fairway Stores has USD 20,000 of open-to-buy remaining. Northline Apparel proposes committing 2,500 pieces of Order A at USD 8.00 per piece through Meridian Sourcing, worth USD 20,000 in goods value alone. Meridian Sourcing charges a 5% commission on the order value, an extra cost that has to be added before the commitment is checked against Fairway Stores' own remaining open-to-buy.
To fit the total cost, including commission, inside the USD 20,000 open-to-buy, Fairway Stores can reduce the commitment to about 2,380 pieces (USD 20,000 divided by USD 8.00, divided again by 1.05 to leave room for the commission), rather than the original 2,500 pieces.
The methodA common mistake is a buyer checking a proposed commitment's own goods value against open-to-buy, seeing the two figures match exactly, and confirming the order without adding the agent's own commission on top. Once Meridian Sourcing has arranged the order with Delta Garments, the commission is owed regardless of whether the buyer accounted for it in advance. What this costs a retailer that gets it wrong is real: a commitment confirmed at exactly the open-to-buy figure, with the commission added afterward, overbuys the season budget by the full commission amount, USD 1,000 in this case, discovered only once the agent's own invoice arrives. This mistake is easy to repeat without noticing, because each single commitment can look correctly sized on its own, right up until Meridian Sourcing's own invoice lands weeks later; by then Delta Garments has already cut fabric against the full quantity, and reducing it after the fact carries its own separate cost on top of the commission that was missed in the first place. A buyer who builds the commission into the check from the start never reaches that point, because the true total cost is known before Northline Apparel or Delta Garments hears anything about the order at all.
A commitment's own true cost against open-to-buy is everything it actually obliges the retailer to pay, not only the price the factory charges for the goods. When an agent arranges the order, that agent's own commission is a real, owed cost, and it has to be added before the commitment is checked against what remains of the season budget. A buyer who checks goods value alone can approve a commitment that looks exactly affordable, then find it has quietly overbought once the agent's own fee is added.
Fairway Stores has USD 20,000 of open-to-buy remaining. Northline Apparel has asked Meridian Sourcing to arrange a 2,500-piece commitment of Order A with Delta Garments at USD 8.00 per piece, and Meridian Sourcing must confirm the order this week, including its own 5% commission.
Here is the note Meridian Sourcing actually prepared before replying to Northline Apparel:
Can Meridian Sourcing confirm the full 2,500-piece commitment this week? Decide before opening the answer.
No, not at the full 2,500 pieces. Two figures in Meridian Sourcing's own note decide this.
First, the commitment's own total cost is USD 21,000. That is the goods value of USD 20,000 plus Meridian Sourcing's own 5% commission of USD 1,000.
Second, Fairway Stores' own open-to-buy remaining is USD 20,000. The total cost is USD 1,000 more than that, an overbuy Northline Apparel's own budget cannot absorb without a change.
Meridian Sourcing's options are to confirm a reduced quantity of about 2,380 pieces, so goods value plus commission together fit inside the USD 20,000 open-to-buy, to ask Northline Apparel whether Fairway Stores can reallocate open-to-buy from elsewhere, or to delay confirmation until a budget increase is agreed. Confirming the full 2,500 pieces without one of those three steps would overbuy Fairway Stores' own season budget by USD 1,000.
Using this lesson's own illustrative figures:
A USD 1,000 overbuy against a USD 20,000 open-to-buy is a 5% overrun, exactly matching Meridian Sourcing's own commission rate, which is no coincidence: missing the commission entirely is what causes the overbuy. A retailer that repeats this mistake across every commission-bearing commitment in a season can overbuy its open-to-buy by a much larger amount than any single order shows on its own.
Open the course workbook's "Open-to-buy" sheet. Enter a proposed commitment's own goods value and any agent's commission rate; the sheet adds the two together automatically and checks the true total against the open-to-buy that remains, before Meridian Sourcing is asked to confirm anything with Delta Garments.
[Download the Open-to-buy and WSSI worksheet](../../templates/T20-C02-open-to-buy-and-wssi-worksheet.xlsx)
1. A commitment's own goods value is USD 15,000, arranged through an agent charging 5% commission. What is the commitment's own total cost against open-to-buy?
2. A retailer has USD 8,000 of open-to-buy remaining. A commitment's own goods value is USD 7,800, arranged through an agent charging 5% commission. Does it fit?
| EN | AR | FR | TR | Meaning |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Open-to-buy | الرصيد المتاح للشراء | Budget disponible (open-to-buy) | Alıma açık bütçe (open-to-buy) | A retailer's season budget minus its committed spend: the amount still available to commit to any range. |
| Agent | وكيل | Agent | Acente | An independent business that is paid a commission for arranging or managing an order on behalf of whichever side hired it. |
| Commission | عمولة | Commission | Komisyon | A payment to an agent, normally a percentage of the order value, agreed in advance in the agency agreement. |
| Hybrid selling model | نموذج بيع مختلط | Modèle de vente hybride | Karma satış modeli | A brand that sells through more than one route to market at once, for example wholesale and its own direct retail, often at different prices. |
| Committed spend | الإنفاق الملتزم به | Dépenses engagées | Taahhüt edilen harcama | The value of purchase orders a retailer has already confirmed against its season budget. |
| Wholesale price | سعر الجملة | Prix de gros | Toptan fiyat | The price a brand charges when it sells the finished goods on, for example to a retailer such as Fairway Stores. |
You now know to count every cost, including an agent's own commission, against open-to-buy before committing new stock. The next lesson assembles open-to-buy and the WSSI into one complete worksheet. Back to the course map