Course contents
Foundation · Course 1: The Apparel and Textile Business · Lesson 2 of 5

Who owns the product at each point in the chain?

Level: FoundationTime: 40 minutesOrder used: A (the T-shirt)Tool: Order Shape sheet
This lesson is for anyone new to the apparel and textile trade: a factory owner, a merchandiser, a buyer, a student, or someone in a supporting business. Lesson 1.1 is useful background but not required. Money figures are teaching examples in US dollars. At work, use the real numbers of your own order.
BuyerNorthline Apparel (overseas clothing brand)
FactoryDelta Garments (garment factory)
ProductBasic cotton T-shirt, one colour
Quantity15,000 pieces
Delivery termsFOB, Delta Garments' port
Order shapeFull package (Delta Garments buys the fabric)
02Opening

Owning goods and holding goods are not the same thing

A factory can be standing in a warehouse full of finished T-shirts and not own a single one of them. A buyer can own T-shirts that are still sitting on a factory's cutting table on the other side of the world. Ownership and possession are two different things, and mixing them up is one of the most expensive mistakes a new merchandiser can make.

This lesson answers one question: at any point in the chain, which company legally owns the goods. A merchandiser is the person in a factory or a buying company who follows an order from the first request until the goods are shipped. Knowing who owns the goods tells you who carries the loss if something goes wrong, who can sell the goods on, and who can use them as security for a loan. Lesson 1.1 showed you the ten stages and the shapes an order can take. This lesson takes one thread from that picture — ownership — and follows it all the way through.

03Before you start

What you need, and what this lesson does not cover

You need: the idea of a full package order and a CMT order from lesson 1.1. If you have not read lesson 1.1, the key terms below give you enough to continue.

By the end of this lesson you can:

  • state the rule that decides who owns goods at any point in a chain;
  • recognise the common variants: full package, CMT, buyer-nominated, consignment stock, and partial payment;
  • trace ownership of Order A through the ten stages, from fabric delivery to loading on the ship;
  • work out the value of goods a factory owns at a given stage, and what it would lose if those goods were destroyed;
  • use the three questions that find who owns the goods right now, on any order;
  • tell the difference between possession and ownership, and explain why the two do not always sit with the same company.

Not covered here: how a price is built (lesson 1.3), who carries transport risk in detail beyond ownership (lesson 1.4), and how a timeline is planned (lesson 1.5).

04Key terms

Words you will meet in this lesson

TermMeaning
OwnershipThe legal right to keep, sell or pledge a good. Decided by who paid, not who holds it.
PossessionPhysically holding or storing goods. A company can possess goods it does not own.
Full package orderThe factory buys the fabric and trims and sells the finished piece, owning the goods until shipment.
CMT (cut, make and trim)The buyer supplies the fabric and pays the factory only for cutting and sewing. The buyer owns the fabric throughout.
Consignment stockStock a mill keeps ownership of, even while held at the factory, until the factory actually uses it.
DepositA partial payment made before an order is finished. It does not usually transfer ownership of the whole order.
FOB (free on board)The factory delivers the goods on board the ship at its own port; ownership and risk normally pass to the buyer there.
Goods-in-processPartly finished goods: cut pieces, garments mid-sewing, garments awaiting inspection.
RiskWho bears the cost of lost or damaged goods. Delivery terms decide who pays freight; the contract decides ownership.
05Teaching
The rule

Ownership follows who paid, not who is holding the goods

The rule is simple to state and easy to get wrong in practice: ownership follows who paid for the material or the goods, unless the contract says otherwise. It does not follow who is physically holding them. A factory holding fabric it did not pay for does not own that fabric, no matter how long the fabric sits in its warehouse.

Ownership also does not automatically follow delivery terms. FOB, CIF and DDP (introduced in lesson 1.1) decide who pays freight and who carries transport risk. They are about the journey. The contract's ownership and payment clause decides ownership itself. In most orders these two things are written to happen at the same moment — for example, "ownership and risk pass to the buyer on loading" — but they are two separate promises in the contract, and a contract can set them apart. Read both.

Fabric and cutpieces: DeltaGarments ownsFinished T-shirtsin warehouse:Delta Garments ownsLoaded on theship: the FOBtransfer pointOn the ship andafter: NorthlineApparel owns
Ownership passes at one single moment: loading on the ship.* Before that moment Delta Garments owns the fabric, the work in progress and the finished goods; after it, Northline Apparel owns them.
What you meet in real life

The same goods can be owned in different ways, depending on who paid for them

What can differThe shapes you will meetWhy it matters to you
Full package (factory buys fabric)The factory owns the fabric and the goods made from it until it sells them to the buyer, normally on shipment.The factory carries the value of the goods, and the loss, until the sale point in the contract.
Buyer-nominated / CMT (buyer supplies or pays for fabric)The buyer owns the fabric from the moment it is delivered to the factory, and owns the goods made from it throughout. The factory never owns them; it only sells labour.The factory has almost nothing to lose in materials if the order is cancelled — but it also cannot sell the goods on if the buyer does not pay for the sewing.
Consignment stockOccasionally a mill or trim supplier keeps ownership of stock physically held at the factory until the factory actually uses it. Ownership transfers piece by piece, as the factory draws the stock down, not on delivery to the factory.The factory may be holding materials worth a lot of money that it does not own and cannot use as collateral.
Partial payment / depositA deposit does not usually transfer ownership of the whole order. Ownership typically transfers on full payment or on shipment, whichever the contract states.A buyer who has paid a deposit does not automatically own goods still in production; check the contract before assuming otherwise.

None of these shapes is more "normal" than the others. What decides which one applies to your order is the contract, and the three questions in the method below.

The case we follow

Order A: tracing ownership through the ten stages

Order A is the full package, FOB order from lesson 1.1: Northline Apparel orders 15,000 basic cotton T-shirts from Delta Garments. Delta Garments chooses and pays for the fabric, sews the T-shirts, and delivers them on board the ship at its own port.

Because this is a full package order, Delta Garments owns the fabric from the moment the dyeing and finishing mill delivers it. It owns the cut pieces while they are being sewn. It owns the finished T-shirts sitting in its own warehouse, waiting for the ship. Ownership stays with Delta Garments the whole way through production. It only passes to Northline Apparel at one moment: when the T-shirts are loaded on board the ship at Delta Garments' port. That is the FOB transfer point, and the contract sets ownership to pass there, at the same moment as risk.

StageWho owns the goodsWhy
Fabric delivered to Delta Garments by the dyeing millDelta GarmentsDelta Garments paid the dyeing mill for the fabric.
Fabric being cutDelta GarmentsSame fabric, same owner; cutting does not change who owns it.
Cut pieces being sewnDelta GarmentsThe pieces are made from fabric Delta Garments owns.
Finished T-shirts in Delta Garments' warehouse, before shipmentDelta GarmentsNothing in the contract has transferred ownership yet.
T-shirts loaded on board the ship at Delta Garments' portNorthline Apparel, from this momentThis is the FOB transfer point named in the contract: ownership and risk pass here.
T-shirts on the ship, in transitNorthline ApparelOwnership already passed on loading.
T-shirts in Northline Apparel's warehouse, in its shopsNorthline ApparelOwnership has not moved again since loading.

If Order A had been a CMT order instead, Northline Apparel would have owned the fabric and the T-shirts made from it at every one of these stages, even while they sat inside Delta Garments' factory. The stages are the same; the ownership column would be entirely different.

The worked number

What Delta Garments owns at the cutting stage, before shipment

At any point before shipment, Delta Garments owns the value that has accumulated in the goods so far: the fabric, the trims already attached, and the labour already spent making them. Using the Order A cost figures from lesson 1.1's costing (fabric 1.15, trims 0.20, making 1.10, per piece), here is the value per piece that Delta Garments owns at the cutting stage, once cutting and the first sewing steps are done:

Fabric: USD 1.15 per piece
Trims: USD 0.20 per piece
Making (cutting and sewing done so far): USD 1.10 per piece
Fabric plus trims: 1.15 + 0.20 = USD 1.35
Value owned per piece: 1.35 + 1.10 = USD 2.45
For 15,000 pieces: 2.45 × 15,000 = USD 36,750

USD 36,750 is the value Delta Garments owns, and would lose, if something destroyed the goods before shipment. Northline Apparel owns none of this value yet, because ownership has not reached the FOB transfer point. This is exactly the value at stake in the workplace scenario below.

Full package orderDelta Garments owns:fabric, trims, goodsin process, and thefinished T-shirts, allthe way to shipmentCMT orderNorthline Apparel owns:the fabric, trims andgoods in process, evenwhile inside DeltaGarments' factory
Who owns the goods during production depends on who bought the fabric.* In a full package order the factory owns everything up to shipment; in a CMT order the buyer owns it throughout, even inside the factory.
The method

Three questions that find who owns the goods right now

To find who owns the goods at any point in any order, answer these three questions in order:

  1. Who paid for the material this thing is made from? Trace the fabric and trims back to who bought them, not to who is holding them.
  2. Does the contract set a different ownership point? Look for a clause naming a moment such as "on shipment" or "on full payment". If the contract is silent, ownership normally stays with whoever paid for the material.
  3. Has that point been reached yet? Check the facts on the ground against the contract's ownership point. Loaded on the ship or not. Paid in full or not.

Write the answers on the working template in block 10. Do this for any order, at any point in its life, and you will always be able to say who owns the goods.

The trap

Mistaking possession for ownership, in both directions

A common mistake is assuming that physical possession equals ownership. A factory holding fabric supplied by the buyer does not own that fabric. It cannot sell it to someone else, and it cannot use it as collateral for a loan, no matter how long it sits in the factory's stores.

The reverse trap is just as common: assuming that because a factory paid for something once, it still owns it after selling it on. Once Northline Apparel pays for the T-shirts, Northline Apparel owns them — even while they sit in Delta Garments' warehouse waiting for the shipping line to collect them. Delta Garments is holding goods it no longer owns. It must look after them and hand them over, but it cannot decide to sell them to another buyer.

06In plain words

Owning something and holding it are not the same. The company that paid for the material owns it, unless the contract says a different moment decides ownership, such as full payment or shipment. Delivery terms like FOB tell you who pays for the journey; they do not by themselves decide who owns the goods, although the contract often sets ownership to move at the same point. To find out who owns goods right now, find out who paid for them, check whether the contract sets a different ownership point, and check whether that point has been reached. Never assume that whoever is holding the goods owns them.

07Quick check
  • Ownership follows who paid, not who is holding the goods.
  • In a CMT order, the buyer owns the fabric and the finished goods the whole time they are in the factory.
  • A deposit does not usually transfer ownership of the whole order; most contracts transfer ownership on full payment or on shipment.
  • FOB, CIF and DDP decide who pays freight and typically who carries transport risk; the contract's ownership clause decides ownership itself, and the two usually move together.
  • A factory holding goods it does not own cannot sell them or use them as collateral.
  • Once a buyer has paid for goods, it owns them even while they still sit in the factory.
08Workplace scenario

A fire in Delta Garments' finishing area damages 5,000 of 15,000 finished T-shirts before the ship arrives

Order A is finished: all 15,000 T-shirts are sewn, finished and sitting in Delta Garments' warehouse. The ship is not due for four more days. A small electrical fire breaks out in the finishing area and damages 5,000 of the 15,000 T-shirts beyond use. The goods have not yet been picked up by the shipping line.

The sales contract's delivery clause reads:

Delivery. FOB [Delta Garments' port]. Risk and ownership of the Goods pass to the Buyer when the Goods have been loaded on board the vessel nominated by the Buyer.

You are the merchandiser at Delta Garments. Who bears the loss of the 5,000 damaged T-shirts — Delta Garments or Northline Apparel? Decide before you open the decision.

Show decision

Delta Garments bears the loss. Under the FOB clause, ownership and risk of the T-shirts only pass to Northline Apparel once the goods have been loaded on board the ship nominated by the buyer. That has not happened yet — the ship is still four days away.

Delta Garments still owned the T-shirts when the fire happened, so Delta Garments absorbs the loss, or claims on its own factory insurance if it has cover. Northline Apparel owns nothing at this point and carries none of the loss, even though the T-shirts were made to its order and carry its labels.

If the fire had happened after the T-shirts were loaded on the ship, the answer would reverse: ownership and risk would already have passed to Northline Apparel, and Northline Apparel would bear the loss instead.

09What it costs

What the fire cost Delta Garments, in money

Using the same per-piece value from the worked number above, the 5,000 damaged T-shirts had this value at the point of the fire:

Cost accumulated per piece by the finishing stage: USD 2.45
Damaged pieces: 5,000
Loss borne by Delta Garments: 5,000 × 2.45 = USD 12,250

Delta Garments loses USD 12,250 in materials and labour, borne entirely by itself, because ownership had not yet passed to Northline Apparel. On top of the money, Delta Garments also loses time: it must re-cut and re-sew 5,000 replacement pieces against a ship date that has not moved. Had the fire happened after loading, this USD 12,250 would have been Northline Apparel's loss instead, and Delta Garments would owe nothing more.

10Working template

Order shape sheet: the ownership rows

Lesson 1.1 introduced this sheet. This lesson fills in the two rows about ownership. Copy this table into your order file and fill it from the contract, not from memory.

QuestionOrder A (filled in)Your order
Who buys the fabric?Factory (full package)
Who owns the fabric in the factory?Delta Garments, from delivery, until shipment
Does the contract set a different ownership point?Yes — ownership and risk pass on loading (FOB)
Has that point been reached?Depends on the date checked; not reached before the ship arrives
Who owns the goods-in-process right now?Delta Garments, until loaded on the ship
Value owned at cutting stage (15,000 pieces)USD 36,750

Download the Order Shape sheet (Excel)

11Check yourself

1. In a CMT order, who owns the fabric while it is being cut and sewn in the factory?

2. A factory has been paid a 30% deposit on an order that is still mid-production. Does the buyer already own the goods?

3. Under a DDP order (the factory delivers to the buyer's warehouse, duty paid), at what point does risk typically transfer, compared with FOB?

12Glossary
ENARFRTRMeaning
OwnershipالملكيةPropriétéMülkiyetThe legal right to a good: to keep it, sell it, or use it as security for a loan. Decided by who paid for it and by the contract.
PossessionالحيازةPossessionZilyetlikPhysically holding or storing goods. A company can possess goods it does not own.
Full package orderطلبية كاملة (المصنع يشتري القماش)Commande produit finiTam paket siparişThe factory buys the fabric and trims, makes the garment and sells the finished piece.
CMT (cut, make and trim)تشغيل فقط: قص وخياطة على قماش المشتريFaçon (CMT)Fason (CMT)The buyer supplies the fabric; the factory is paid only for cutting, sewing and finishing.
Consignment stockمخزون أمانةStock en dépôtKonsinye stokStock a supplier keeps ownership of while it is physically held at the factory, until the factory uses it.
Depositدفعة مقدمةAcompteKaporaA partial payment made before an order is finished. Does not usually transfer ownership of the whole order by itself.
FOB (free on board)تسليم على ظهر السفينة في ميناء المصنعFOB (franco à bord)FOB (gemide teslim)The factory delivers the goods on board the ship at its own port. Ownership and risk normally pass here.
Goods-in-processبضاعة تحت التشغيلProduits en coursYarı mamulPartly finished goods: cut pieces, garments mid-sewing, garments awaiting inspection.
RiskالمخاطرةRisqueRiskWho bears the cost if goods are lost, damaged or destroyed. Usually moves with ownership, decided separately in the contract.
13Next

Lesson 1.3: How the price is built

You now know who owns the goods at every point in the chain. The next lesson opens the costing sheet and shows how each cost, from fabric to profit, adds up to the price the factory charges, and how that price climbs on from there. Back to the course map

14Ladder

RecognizeState the rule that decides ownership at any point in the chain.
ConnectSee how full package, CMT, consignment and deposit orders change who owns the goods.
CompareTell ownership apart from possession, and ownership apart from delivery terms.
DecideUse the contract's ownership clause to say who bears a loss before shipment.