Course contents
Practitioner · Course 2: Raw Material Stores · Lesson 2 of 5

Issuing fabric and trims to the cutting room without stopping production

Level: PractitionerTime: 40 minutesOrder used: A (the T-shirt)Tool: Raw material store tracker
For storekeepers, production managers and merchandisers who need to release fabric and trims to a cutting room without stopping the line or losing control of the store's own stock. Lesson 1 is useful preparation, not required. The figures are teaching figures built on Order A, the T-shirt.
FactoryDelta Garments
OrderA — 15,000 basic T-shirts
StoreRaw material store (fabric and trims)
Cutting line capacity1,000 pieces per day
Daily fabric issueAbout 205 kg
Business modelMake to Order, export
02Opening

This page teaches how a raw material store releases fabric and trims to the cutting room in planned batches, so the product keeps flowing without the cutting line ever running out of material mid-shift

A raw material store does not simply hand over an order's entire fabric the day cutting starts. Releasing too little stops the cutting line for lack of material; releasing too much leaves fabric sitting exposed on the cutting room floor, at greater risk of damage, mix-up or loss, and leaves the store's own book stock wrong until someone reconciles what was actually issued against what was actually cut. This lesson teaches how a storekeeper sizes and times a material issue so the cutting room always has what it needs, and no more, and applies it to Delta Garments' own raw material store for Order A.

Without a planned issuing method, a store either becomes a bottleneck that starves the cutting room, or a source of waste and lost control from over-releasing stock the cutting room cannot use yet. Both mistakes are avoidable once a storekeeper matches each issue to the cutting line's own daily capacity.

03Before you start

What you need, and what this lesson does not cover

You need: the distinction between a raw material store and a finished goods store, and where work-in-progress sits, both from Lesson 1.

By the end of this lesson you can:

  • explain why a raw material store issues fabric in batches instead of all at once;
  • size a daily material issue against the cutting room's own daily capacity;
  • record a material issue on an issue slip so the store's own book stock stays accurate;
  • recognise the risk of issuing more fabric than the cutting room can process that day.

Not covered here: tracking one fabric roll's own remaining balance (Lesson 3), or reconciling the store's own count against actual usage (Lesson 4). This lesson only teaches how material is released from the store to the cutting room.

04Key terms

Words you will meet in this lesson

TermMeaning
Material issueReleasing a measured quantity of fabric or trims from the raw material store to the cutting room or production line, recorded against a specific order.
Issue slipThe document that records what was issued from the raw material store, to which order, and how much, so the store's own book stock can be updated.
Cutting roomThe area where bulk fabric is cut to the approved marker, the step between fabric arriving and sewing starting.
RollA length of fabric wound onto a cylindrical core for storage and transport.
Marker wastageFabric lost during cutting because pattern pieces never fill a cutting layout perfectly; a separate allowance from combing waste.
Fabric consumptionThe amount of fabric (by weight or length) one garment piece uses, the basis for calculating an order's total fabric requirement.
05Teaching
The rule

A raw material store issues fabric and trims in batches sized to the cutting room's own daily capacity, never the whole order at once

Issuing an entire order's fabric on day one of cutting looks efficient but is not: the cutting room can only process what its layers and its cutters can handle in a shift, so any fabric issued beyond that sits idle on the floor, exposed to damage, shade mix-up between rolls, or simple loss of track of what remains. A raw material store instead issues a batch sized to what the cutting room will actually cut that day or that shift, repeating the issue on a schedule until the order's fabric is fully released.

Issuing the whole order at once: fabric sits idle, exposed to riskIssuing in daily batches matched to capacity: fabric moves as it arrivesEach block is one day's issue, sized to that day's cutting capacity
Issuing fabric in daily batches keeps it moving instead of sitting exposed. A batch matched to capacity has no idle fabric waiting on the cutting room floor.
What you meet in real life

How a material issue is sized and scheduled changes with the business model, the product and the market

What can differThe shapes you meetWhy it matters to you
Business modelA Make to Order factory like Delta Garments issues fabric against one confirmed order's own cutting schedule, such as Order A's 15,000 pieces cut over a planned number of days. A Make to Stock factory issues fabric against a rolling production plan instead of one order's own finish date.The issuing schedule follows a fixed order timeline in one case and a rolling plan in the other, but the batch-sizing principle is the same.
Product familyA garment factory issues fabric rolls and boxed trims by weight or piece; a hosiery mill issues yarn cones by weight to its knitting machines; a home-textiles converter issues fabric by length to its cutting tables; a terry mill issues yarn to its looms rather than issuing finished fabric.The unit issued changes by product family, but every one of them still needs a batch sized to what the next stage can process that day.
MarketAn export order under a fixed shipment date, such as Order A, needs its issuing schedule to keep pace with the timeline's own fabric and sewing stages, since a stall in cutting has no slack before a fixed port cut-off. A domestic order has more room to adjust the issuing schedule around a rolling reorder point.A tighter export deadline makes disciplined, on-schedule issuing more important, not the batch-sizing method itself different.
Issue methodA single issue releases one batch for one cutting session; a running issue releases smaller amounts continuously as the cutting room reports capacity available, common on a fast-moving basic style.The right method depends on how predictable the cutting room's own daily capacity is; an unpredictable capacity favours smaller, more frequent issues.
The case we follow

Delta Garments issues Order A's fabric to the cutting room in daily batches matched to the line's own cutting capacity

Karim, the production manager, and the storekeeper agree that Order A's cutting line can lay up and cut about 1,000 pieces a day. Rather than releasing all of Order A's roughly 3,000 kg of fabric to the cutting room floor at once, the storekeeper issues one day's worth of fabric each morning, matched to that day's planned cutting, and records each issue on an issue slip stating the order, the quantity, and the date.

This keeps the cutting room floor clear of fabric it cannot yet use, and keeps the raw material store's own book stock moving down in step with what is actually being cut, rather than dropping to near zero on day one while cutting is still spread across several weeks.

The worked number

One day's material issue for Order A matches one day's cutting capacity, not the whole order

Cutting line capacity: 1,000 pieces per day
Fabric consumption per piece (including 7% marker wastage): 0.205 kg
Daily fabric issue: 1,000 × 0.205 = 205 kg

Over the roughly 15 working days needed to cut all 15,000 pieces at this rate, the store issues about 205 kg a day, totalling close to the order's own 3,075 kg fabric requirement by the last day of cutting. On any single day, the raw material store's own book stock should fall by about 205 kg, not by the full remaining balance, and the issue slip for that day should show exactly that quantity against Order A.

Cutting room reportsToday's capacity: 1,000 piecesStorekeeper issues205 kg matched batchIssue slip recordedOrder, quantity, dateBook stock falls
Each day's issue is recorded before the fabric leaves the store. An issue slip written after the fact risks a book stock that no longer matches what has actually left the raw material store.
The method

Size and schedule a material issue in five steps

  1. Confirm the next stage's own capacity for the period covered by the issue, such as the cutting room's planned pieces for the day.
  2. Calculate the batch quantity using the standard fabric consumption per piece, never a rounded guess.
  3. Write the issue slip first, naming the order, the quantity, and the date, before releasing the fabric.
  4. Release the matched batch, not the full remaining balance, even if more fabric is available in the store.
  5. Update the book stock immediately from the issue slip, so the store's own count reflects what has actually left, not what was originally received.
The trap

A common mistake is releasing an entire order's fabric to the cutting room on the first day to save repeated trips to the store

Issuing everything at once looks like it saves time, since the storekeeper only has to make one release instead of many. The cost of this mistake is that fabric the cutting room cannot process that day sits exposed on the floor for days or weeks, at higher risk of a shade mix-up between rolls, accidental damage, or simply losing track of how much has actually been cut versus how much is still waiting, while the raw material store's own book stock already shows the fabric as gone, no longer matching what a physical count of the store would show.

06In plain words

A raw material store does not hand fabric to the cutting room all at once. It releases only as much as the cutting room can actually cut that day, records exactly what left on an issue slip, and repeats this every day until the whole order is cut. Releasing too much leaves fabric sitting around unprotected; releasing too little stops the cutting line. Matching each issue to the cutting room's own daily capacity avoids both problems and keeps the store's own book stock accurate throughout the order.

07Quick check
  • A material issue is sized to what the next stage can process in the period covered, not the whole order.
  • The daily fabric issue equals the day's planned pieces multiplied by the fabric consumption per piece.
  • An issue slip is written before or at the moment fabric leaves the store, never after the fact.
  • The raw material store's own book stock updates from the issue slip, not from a later estimate.
  • Releasing an entire order's fabric on day one increases the risk of damage, mix-up and lost control, even though it saves a storekeeper's own trips to the floor.
08Workplace scenario

The cutting room supervisor asks Delta Garments' storekeeper to release three days of fabric at once so the cutting team can work ahead over a public holiday

Karim tells the storekeeper that the cutting room will be short-staffed for the next three days and wants three days' worth of Order A's fabric, about 615 kg, issued today so cutting is not held up when staff return.

  • The cutting line's own capacity is 1,000 pieces a day, needing about 205 kg of fabric per day.
  • The cutting room asks for three days of fabric, about 615 kg, released at once.
  • Only a skeleton cutting team will be present during the three days.

Should the storekeeper issue the full 615 kg today as requested? Decide before opening the answer.

Show decision

No. The storekeeper should issue only what the skeleton team can realistically cut each day, releasing the remaining fabric on the following days rather than all 615 kg at once.

1. A skeleton cutting team cannot process a normal day's capacity, so issuing three full days of fabric at once leaves most of the 615 kg sitting unused and exposed on the cutting room floor for days. 2. Fabric sitting idle for an extended period carries a real risk of shade mix-up, damage or misplacement, especially with reduced staff on hand to monitor it closely. 3. A phased issue, matched to what the skeleton team can actually cut each day, keeps the raw material store's own book stock accurate and avoids releasing stock the factory then has to search for or explain later.

The request to work ahead is reasonable, but the fix is a smaller, more frequent issue matched to the reduced capacity, not a single large release sized to a normal day's output.

09What it costs

Over-issuing fabric on an order worth USD 48,000 in FOB value risks damage and lost control for no real gain in speed

Order A carries a FOB price of USD 3.20 per piece on 15,000 pieces, giving:

15,000 pieces × USD 3.20 = USD 48,000 total FOB value for Order A

If even 5% of a single day's over-issued fabric, about 10 kg, were damaged or lost to a shade mix-up while sitting unused on the cutting room floor, that fabric would need replacing at its purchase price of USD 5.60 per kg, a loss of USD 56.00 for that one incident, on top of the delay in finding and correcting the error. Against an order worth USD 48,000, the loss itself is small, but it buys nothing: the fabric would have been cut just as fast issued in the correct, smaller batch, so the only effect of over-issuing is added risk with no offsetting benefit.

10Working template

Raw material store tracker: log every material issue against the order it serves

Use the T24-C02 Raw material store tracker workbook, "Material issue log" sheet. For each issue, record the order, the date, the quantity issued, and the cutting room's own planned capacity for that period, so an over-issue stands out immediately. Start with Order A's own daily batches above, then add your own issues.

[Download the Raw material store tracker workbook](../../templates/T24-C02-raw-material-store-tracker.xlsx)

Download the Raw material store tracker (Excel)

11Check yourself

1. Why does a raw material store issue fabric to the cutting room in batches instead of releasing an entire order's fabric on the first day?

2. A different factory's cutting room can process 500 pieces a day, and its standard fabric consumption is 0.30 kg per piece. What should its daily material issue be?

12Glossary
ENARFRTRMeaning
Material issueصرف الموادSortie de matièreMalzeme çıkışıReleasing a measured quantity of fabric or trims from the raw material store to the cutting room or production line, recorded against a specific order.
Issue slipإذن الصرفBon de sortieMalzeme çıkış fişiThe document that records what was issued from the raw material store, to which order, and how much, so the store's own book stock can be updated.
Cutting roomصالة القصSalle de coupeKesim salonuThe area where bulk fabric is cut to the approved marker, the step between fabric arriving and sewing starting.
Rollلفة القماشRouleauTopA length of fabric wound onto a cylindrical core for storage and transport.
Marker wastageفاقد الماركرPerte de placement (marker)Marker firesiFabric lost during cutting because pattern pieces never fill a cutting layout perfectly; a separate allowance from combing waste.
Fabric consumptionاستهلاك القماشConsommation de tissuKumaş tüketimiThe amount of fabric (by weight or length) one garment piece uses, the basis for calculating an order's total fabric requirement.
13Next

Lesson 3: Tracking a fabric roll's own remaining balance after each cut

Next you will learn how to track exactly how much fabric remains on one specific roll after each cut is taken from it, instead of only watching the store's total balance. Back to the course map

14Ladder

RecognizeTell a matched material issue apart from releasing an entire order's fabric at once.
ConnectSee why over-issuing exposes fabric to damage and loss of control without speeding up cutting.
CompareJudge whether a requested issue matches the next stage's own real capacity for the period.
DecideChoose a phased issue over a single large release when capacity is reduced or uncertain.