Course contents
Foundation · Course 5: Tech Packs and Costable Specifications · Lesson 4 of 5

Adding grading rules, labelling and packing instructions to a tech pack

Level: FoundationTime: 40 minutesOrder used: A (the T-shirt)Tool: Tech pack template pack
This lesson is for anyone who checks a tech pack's grading-rules and labelling/packing sections before cutting and packing planning: a mill's team, a merchandiser, a production planner, or a new entrant. It follows lesson T05-C05-L03. Figures are teaching examples. At work, use your own order's real grade rule and packing spec.
BuyerNorthline Apparel (overseas clothing brand)
FactoryDelta Garments (garment factory, cuts and sews)
Fabric supplierRowad Knits (supplies Order A's knit fabric)
Quantity15,000 pieces, sizes S M L XL, ratio 1:2:2:1
Grade ruleChest +4 cm/step, sleeve length +1 cm/step, from base size M
Saving packageUSD 0.15 total, including a printed label at USD 0.03
02Opening

This page explains how to add grading rules and labelling/packing instructions to a tech pack, and how to check both are complete

This page is for anyone who checks a tech pack's grading-rules and labelling/packing sections before cutting and packing planning: a mill's team, a merchandiser, a production planner, or a new entrant. It explains how to add grading rules and labelling/packing instructions to a tech pack, and how to check both are complete before the order proceeds. This lesson teaches product flow: a tech pack's sizing and packing statements decide what a factory actually cuts and ships.

Lesson T05-C05-L03 added construction and measurement detail to Order A's tech pack. Two sections remain: the grading-rules section, stating how the base size scales to every other size, and the labelling/packing section, stating what labels, packaging and carton marking the garment needs. A new entrant can assume these are minor add-ons once measurements are set. They are not. A missing grade rule cannot produce accurate sizes past base size, and a mismatched labelling choice risks a gap between costed and produced.

A factory can cut a full size range with no rule past the base size, or pack with a costlier labelling choice than the price was built on. By then, fabric is already cut or cartons already packed.

03Before you start

What you need, and what this lesson does not cover

You need: lesson T05-C05-L03 (construction and measurement), since this lesson continues the same tech pack. Course T05-C03 (Pattern Making and Marker Fundamentals) and T05-C04 (Measurement, Fit and Size Sets) are useful background but not required; this lesson reuses their grade rule directly.

By the end of this lesson you can:

  • state what two pieces of information a complete grading-rules section needs, and why one alone is not enough;
  • name the items a complete labelling/packing section specifies, and identify a cost-relevant labelling choice;
  • apply Order A's own fixed grade rule and saving-package figure to a tech pack's grading and packing sections;
  • check whether a tech pack's labelling/packing section is consistent with its bill of materials;
  • record both sections' completeness on this course's tech pack template pack.

Not covered here: how a base pattern is graded in detail, point by point (lesson T05-C03-L02); how a size set's full measurements are calculated across sizes (lesson T05-C04-L02); how every tech pack section is assembled into one complete document (lesson T05-C05-L05).

04Key terms

Words you will meet in this lesson

TermMeaning
Base sizeThe size a grade rule is applied to as the starting point for every other size.
Grade ruleThe amount added or removed at each pattern point, per size step from the base size.
Care labelA small label stating how a garment should be washed and cared for.
Main labelThe label carrying the brand name and size, separate from the care label.
Labelling and packing sectionThe tech pack section stating labels, packaging and carton marking, and cost-relevant packing choices.
Carton markingInformation marked on a shipping carton, such as order number, quantity and destination.
Printed labelA label printed onto fabric tape, a lower-cost choice than a woven label.
Woven labelA label woven with thread on a loom, a higher-cost choice than a printed label.
Saving packageOrder A's own fixed set of cost-saving choices, including a printed label, totalling USD 0.15 per piece.
05Teaching
The rule

A tech pack's grading-rules section states the base size and grade rule; its labelling/packing section states every label, packaging and carton-marking item, with cost-relevant choices connected to the bill of materials

A tech pack's grading-rules section states the base size and the grade rule applied to that base size to produce every other size in the range, already established in lesson T05-C03-L02 and lesson T05-C04-L02. A tech pack's labelling/packing section states what labels, packaging and carton marking a garment needs, including any cost-relevant packing choice, such as a printed label instead of a woven label. Order A's own fixed saving-package breakdown includes a printed label at USD 0.03 of a USD 0.15 total saving package: a real, fixed figure showing that a labelling or packing choice has a real cost impact, not just a logistical detail attached at the end.

Grading-rules sectionBase size statedGrade rule per point statedBoth together = completeLabelling/packing sectionCare label, main label namedPolybag, carton mark namedCost choice matches bill of materials
A tech pack's grading-rules section needs the base size and the grade rule together, and its labelling/packing section needs every item named with any cost-relevant choice matched to the bill of materials. Either section can look complete while actually missing one required piece.
What you meet in real life

The grading-rules and labelling/packing conditions a tech pack can actually be in

A tech pack's grading-rules and labelling/packing sections can each be complete, incomplete, or internally inconsistent with the rest of the document, in ways that are not always obvious from a quick read.

What can differThe shapes you meetWhy it matters
Complete grading-rules sectionBase size and grade-per-point amounts both stated clearly, matching the established grade rule (chest +4 cm/step, sleeve length +1 cm/step)A factory can cut every size in the range accurately from the base size alone
Missing grading rulesBase size stated, but no grade rule givenA factory cannot produce accurate sizes beyond the base size; it would have to guess
Complete labelling/packing sectionCare label, main label, polybag and carton marking all specified, with any cost-relevant choice, such as printed vs. woven label, notedA factory knows exactly what to attach and pack, at the cost already quoted
Labelling/packing choice with a cost impactA printed label costs USD 0.03 as part of Order A's own fixed USD 0.15 saving package, a specific labelling choice tied to a real, fixed figureShows that a labelling decision is a costing decision, not only a logistical one
Inconsistent labelling/packing sectionLabelling/packing section specifies an item that does not match what the bill of materials assumed (for example, a woven label priced differently from the printed label the costing used)Risks the factory using a different, uncosted material, silently changing the order's actual cost
The case we follow

Rowad Knits, supplying fabric for Order A's export batch made by Delta Garments, is asked to confirm the tech pack's grading rules and packing instructions are complete

Rowad Knits, supplying the knit fabric for a hybrid Make to Order/Make to Stock export batch of Order A's T-shirts made by Delta Garments, is asked to confirm the tech pack's grading rules and packing instructions are complete before the batch proceeds to cutting and packing planning. The grading-rules section must state Order A's base size and its grade rule; the labelling/packing section must name every required item and connect any cost-relevant choice to the bill of materials. Only once both sections check out can the batch move forward with confidence that the sizes cut and the cartons packed will match what was actually quoted.

Rowad Knitsconfirms tech pack sectionsGrading + packingchecked completeDelta Garmentscuts and packs on schedule
Rowad Knits' check of the grading-rules and labelling/packing sections comes before Delta Garments cuts or packs anything. A gap in either section is caught here, not on the cutting table.
The worked number

Order A's own fixed grade rule and saving-package figure applied to the grading-rules and labelling/packing sections

This lesson invents no new figures; it reuses Order A's own fixed grade rule (chest +4 cm/step, sleeve length +1 cm/step, from base size M) and its own fixed saving-package figure (printed label USD 0.03, part of a USD 0.15 total saving package).

Grading-rules section: base size M + grade rule (chest +4 cm/step, sleeve length +1 cm/step) = a complete rule for producing S, L and XL from M
Labelling/packing section: printed label USD 0.03 = one part of Order A's fixed USD 0.15 saving package (printed label 0.03 + bulk packing 0.04 + better marker 0.03 + yearly commitment 0.05)

The grading-rules section states both facts side by side, since the base size alone is not a rule. The labelling/packing section states the printed label as the specific labelling choice the USD 0.15 saving package assumes, so the bill of materials and the labelling section agree on the same figure.

The method

How to check a tech pack's grading-rules and labelling/packing sections

  1. Confirm the grading-rules section states the base size.
  2. Confirm it also states the grade-per-point amounts, not just the base size, since one without the other cannot produce accurate sizes.
  3. Confirm the labelling/packing section names every required item: care label, main label, polybag and carton marking.
  4. Identify any cost-relevant packing choice, such as printed vs. woven label, named in that section.
  5. Match that choice against the bill of materials to confirm the same labelling assumption appears in both places.
  6. Flag any mismatch before the batch proceeds to cutting and packing planning.
The trap

Treating labelling and packing as a purely logistical afterthought disconnected from costing

A common mistake is treating labelling and packing as a purely logistical afterthought disconnected from costing. A labelling choice, such as printed vs. woven label, has a real cost difference, and a tech pack that specifies packing without connecting it to the bill of materials risks a mismatch between what was costed and what is actually produced. This costs the difference between the labelling choice actually costed and the one actually used, multiplied across the whole order, once the mismatch is discovered.

06In plain words

A tech pack needs two more sections after its measurements: one for grading, one for labelling and packing. The grading-rules section must state both the base size and the grade rule, the amount added at each point for each size step, not just one of the two. Order A's own grade rule adds 4 cm to the chest and 1 cm to the sleeve length for each size step from base size M. The labelling/packing section must name every label, the polybag, and the carton marking, and note any choice that changes cost, such as a printed label instead of a woven label. Order A's own fixed saving package includes a printed label at USD 0.03 of a USD 0.15 total. If the labelling section specifies something different from what the bill of materials assumed, the order's real cost has quietly changed from what was quoted.

07Quick check
  • A complete grading-rules section states both the base size and the grade-per-point amounts.
  • A grade rule missing from a tech pack means a factory cannot cut accurate sizes beyond the base size.
  • A complete labelling/packing section names the care label, main label, polybag and carton marking.
  • A printed label and a woven label carry different real costs; Order A's fixed printed label costs USD 0.03.
  • Order A's fixed saving package totals USD 0.15 per piece, of which the printed label is USD 0.03.
  • A labelling/packing choice that does not match the bill of materials is an internal inconsistency, not a minor detail.
08Workplace scenario

A tech pack's bill of materials assumes a printed label, but its labelling/packing section specifies a woven label instead

Rowad Knits is asked to confirm Order A's tech pack before the batch proceeds. The facts in front of the reviewing team:

  • Order A's bill of materials was built on its own fixed saving package, which assumes a printed label at USD 0.03.
  • The tech pack's labelling/packing section, drafted separately, specifies a woven label for the same garment.
  • No one has updated either section to match the other since the labelling/packing section was drafted.

The document the reviewing team reads, the bill of materials assumption and the labelling section's specification, exactly as they appear in the tech pack:

Bill of materials (cost basis): Printed label, USD 0.03 per piece, part of the fixed USD 0.15 saving package. Labelling/packing section (specification): Main label: woven label, brand logo, size tab attached.

Is this tech pack internally consistent? Decide before opening the answer.

Show decision

No. The bill of materials assumes a printed label's cost, USD 0.03, part of Order A's fixed saving package, but the labelling section specifies a woven label, which is typically a different, often higher, cost.

Two facts, together, decide this. First, the bill of materials was built using the fixed saving package's printed-label figure, USD 0.03; that figure only holds if a printed label is what is actually attached. Second, the labelling/packing section, read on its own, specifies a woven label for the main label, a different item from the one the costing assumed.

The bill of materials needs to be updated to reflect the woven label's actual cost, or the labelling section corrected to match the printed label the costing assumed, before the tech pack is internally consistent. Proceeding without resolving this means Delta Garments could attach a woven label to every one of the 15,000 pieces at a cost the FOB price never accounted for.

09What it costs

What an unresolved printed-vs-woven-label mismatch risks across Order A's whole batch

This lesson's cost is framed qualitatively, anchored to the one concrete figure this academy fixes: the printed label's own USD 0.03 share of Order A's USD 0.15 saving package.

Order A's fixed printed-label cost, for reference: USD 0.03 per piece, one part of a USD 0.15 total saving package across 15,000 pieces

An inconsistency between the bill of materials and the labelling/packing section risks the factory using a different, uncosted material, silently changing the order's actual cost from what was quoted. This is a real but not separately quantified cost, since no fixed woven-label price exists elsewhere in this academy to calculate an exact difference; the completeness-and-consistency method in this lesson is what prevents the mismatch from reaching the cutting table or the carton in the first place.

10Working template

Tech pack template pack: record the grading-rules and labelling/packing sections before the batch proceeds

Copy this table into the tech pack template pack. Fill each row from what the tech pack actually states, not from what was assumed when the bill of materials was built.

Tech pack sectionFigures come fromComplete (your entry)Notes
Grading rulesCourse 3's own grade rule (chest +4 cm/step, sleeve length +1 cm/step)Applied from base size M across S, M, L, XL
Labelling and packingOrder A's own fixed saving-package figure (printed label 0.03 of the 0.15 saving package)Care label, main label, polybag, carton mark, matched to bill of materials

Download the full working sheet, with a column for your own notes, from the link on this course's page.

Download the Tech pack template pack (Excel)

11Check yourself

1. What two pieces of information does a complete grading-rules section need?

2. Why does a labelling choice, such as printed vs. woven label, matter to a tech pack's costing?

3. A second tech pack's bill of materials assumes bulk packing at USD 0.04 per piece (part of Order A's own fixed saving package), but its labelling/packing section specifies individual polybag packing instead, with no cost update. Is this tech pack consistent?

12Glossary
ENARFRTRMeaning
Base sizeالمقاس الأساسيTaille de baseTemel bedenThe size a grade rule is applied to as the starting point for producing every other size in the range.
Grade ruleقاعدة التدريجRègle de gradationGradasyon kuralıThe set amount added or removed at each specific point on a pattern, for each size step away from the base size.
Care labelليبل العنايةÉtiquette d'entretienBakım etiketiA small label sewn into a garment stating how it should be washed and cared for; one common trim.
Main labelالليبل الرئيسيÉtiquette principaleAna etiketThe label carrying the brand name and size, usually sewn into the neck or waistband, separate from the care label.
Labelling and packing sectionقسم الليبل والتعبئةSection étiquetage et emballageEtiketleme ve paketleme bölümüThe tech pack section stating what labels, packaging and carton marking a garment needs, including any cost-relevant packing choices.
Carton markingعلامات الكرتونMarquage des cartonsKarton işaretlemeThe information printed or labelled on a shipping carton, such as order number, quantity and destination, so cartons can be identified and sorted.
Printed labelليبل مطبوعÉtiquette impriméeBaskılı etiketA label whose text is printed directly onto fabric tape, a lower-cost labelling choice than a woven label.
Woven labelليبل منسوجÉtiquette tisséeDokuma etiketA label woven with thread on a loom, a higher-cost labelling choice than a printed label.
Saving packageحزمة التوفيرForfait d'économiesTasarruf paketiOrder A's own fixed set of cost-saving choices, including a printed label, totalling USD 0.15 per piece off the FOB price.
13Next

Lesson 5.5: Assembling a complete tech pack

You now know how to check that a tech pack's grading-rules section and labelling/packing section are complete and consistent with the bill of materials. The next lesson brings every section together: bill of materials, construction detail, measurement spec, grading rules and labelling/packing, assembled into one complete tech pack for Order A. Back to the course map

14Ladder

RecognizeName what a complete grading-rules section and a complete labelling/packing section each state.
ConnectSee how Order A's own fixed grade rule and saving-package figure fill both sections without inventing new numbers.
CompareTell a complete, consistent tech pack section from one that is missing a grade rule or mismatched against the bill of materials.
DecideJudge whether a tech pack's labelling/packing section is internally consistent with its own bill of materials.