This page is for anyone who looks at a printed garment and has to decide what is wrong with it. At work, a quality technician at a print house, or a merchandiser checking an inspection report, sees a flagged piece and must say exactly which fault it shows before anyone can decide what happens next. A print fault is not one generic problem called "bad printing." It has a shape: colours out of line, a cracked ink film, ink spreading past its edge, or a print sitting in the wrong spot. Each shape has its own name and its own likely cause.
Without this skill, a flagged piece gets an unclear label like "print looks off," and nobody can decide confidently between reworking it, rejecting it, or passing it after all. Worse, the wrong diagnosis can send a fixable piece to the bin, or let a genuine fault pass because nobody named it. This lesson teaches you to read a print fault's exact shape, match it to its correct name, and use that name to make a clear rework-or-reject decision.
You need: the two main print methods, screen print and digital print, from lessons 4.1 and 4.2. You do not need the cost calculator from lesson 4.3 for this lesson.
By the end of this lesson you can:
Not covered here: how the print cost calculator works (lesson 4.3), and how to combine cost, break-even quantity and fault risk into one method recommendation (lesson 4.5).
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Print placement | Where a print sits on a garment, measured from fixed reference points such as a set distance down from the shoulder seam. |
| Placement specification | The customer's written statement of exactly where a print must sit on the garment, checked against every printed piece. |
| Misregistration | Colours not lining up correctly, most common in multi-screen screen print when the screens shift out of alignment with each other. |
| Ink cracking | The ink film breaking into visible lines, often from under-curing or the wrong ink type on a stretch fabric. |
| Bleeding | Ink spreading beyond its intended edge, often from too much ink or the wrong mesh count. |
| Incorrect placement | The print landing in the wrong position relative to the garment's reference points; a measurement and setup fault, not an ink fault. |
| Mesh count | How fine or coarse a screen's mesh is in screen print; the wrong mesh count can let too much ink through and cause bleeding. |
Print placement is measured from fixed reference points on the garment, for example a set distance down from the shoulder seam, or centred on the chest panel, and it is always checked against the customer's placement specification. Four faults come up again and again in printed garments. Misregistration is colours not aligning, common in multi-screen screen print when screens shift. Ink cracking is the ink film breaking under stretch, often from under-curing or the wrong ink type for a stretch fabric. Bleeding is ink spreading beyond its intended edge, often from too much ink or the wrong mesh count. Incorrect placement is the print landing in the wrong position relative to the garment's reference points. Any one of these four can cause a printed piece to be rejected at inspection, so naming the correct one matters.
| What can differ | The shapes you meet | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Misregistration | Colours out of line with each other, most relevant to multi-screen screen print, where each colour's screen must align precisely. | Digital print does not have this specific fault, since it prints all colours in one pass; screen print needs each screen checked. |
| Ink cracking | The ink film breaks into visible lines, especially on stretch fabrics such as a cotton-elastane blend. | Relevant to both print methods, but especially screen print with certain plastisol inks on stretch fabric; often not visible until the garment is stretched. |
| Bleeding | Ink spreads past its intended edge, tied to ink viscosity and mesh count. | Most relevant to screen print, since digital print applies ink in a controlled, fine pattern with no mesh involved. |
| Incorrect placement | The print sits in the wrong position relative to the garment's reference points. | Relevant to both print methods equally; a measurement and setup fault, not a method-specific ink fault. |
The same four faults, and the same reference-point checking method, apply on any printed apparel product, whatever the garment category, since placement measurement and ink behaviour do not depend on the specific style being printed.
The case we followNilePrint is Rowad Knits' printing partner: Rowad Knits supplies fabric, and NilePrint prints it, with quality feedback flowing both ways between the two companies, a hybrid arrangement rather than a single company doing both jobs. NilePrint receives a batch of an illustrative export print order back from inspection, with several pieces flagged for print faults. Before deciding on rework or rejection, NilePrint's quality technician must identify which specific fault each flagged piece shows.
| Flagged piece | What the inspection found | Fault to identify |
|---|---|---|
| Piece 1 | The print sits lower than the placement specification allows | Not yet named; see the method below |
| Piece 2 | A stretch test shows the ink film breaking into visible lines | Not yet named; see the method below |
This lesson has no order-level cost calculation; no cast figure applies to an illustrative print order. Its worked output is a correct match between each flagged piece's exact symptom and the one fault name that symptom describes, the diagnostic step NilePrint runs on every flagged piece before deciding rework or rejection.
A common mistake is confusing bleeding, ink spreading beyond its edge during printing, with ink cracking, the ink film breaking under stretch, often only visible once the garment is worn or stretched, not at initial inspection. The two look different once identified correctly, and they have different causes: bleeding traces to ink viscosity or the wrong mesh count during printing, while ink cracking traces to under-curing or the wrong ink type for a stretch fabric. Misdiagnosing one as the other sends the wrong process step for correction. A print house told to fix "bleeding" when the real fault was ink cracking will adjust ink viscosity or mesh count, changes that do nothing for a curing problem, and the real fault recurs on the next batch.
Where a print sits on a garment is checked against the customer's own written instructions for exactly where it should go. Faults have their own shapes and names. Colours not lining up is misregistration, mostly a multi-screen screen print problem. An ink film breaking into lines is ink cracking, from under-curing or the wrong ink on a stretch fabric. Ink spreading past its edge is bleeding, from too much ink or the wrong screen mesh. The print sitting in the wrong spot is incorrect placement, a measurement problem, not an ink problem. Reading a fault's exact shape correctly, not guessing at "something looks wrong," is what lets anyone decide confidently whether to rework, reject or pass a piece.
NilePrint receives an inspection report on an illustrative export print batch. Two pieces are flagged.
The document the technician reads, exactly as quoted:
You are the quality technician at NilePrint. What fault does each flagged piece show. Decide before opening the answer.
Piece 1 shows incorrect placement. Piece 2 shows ink cracking. Two facts decide each answer.
Piece 1. The report states a measured distance from the placement specification, 3 cm lower, with no mention of colour alignment or ink condition. A positioning mismatch against the specification is the definition of incorrect placement, not an ink fault at all.
Piece 2. The report describes the ink film breaking into visible lines under a stretch test, with no mention of ink spreading past an edge. A breaking ink film under stretch is the definition of ink cracking, an ink-curing or ink-type fault, not the ink-spreading fault that defines bleeding.
Neither answer needed a guess. Each report line named one specific symptom, and each symptom matches exactly one fault name from the rule above. NilePrint can now ask for the correct fix on each piece: a placement correction on Piece 1, and an ink-curing or ink-type check on Piece 2, instead of treating both as one unclear "printing problem."
This case has no aggregate cost figure to calculate, as this lesson's brief sets out; its cost is framed qualitatively. A placement fault found only after printing means the fabric and printing cost on that piece are already spent, on a piece that may need reprinting or rejection. Naming the fault correctly does not undo that spent cost, but it does stop the same spent cost happening again: correctly diagnosing incorrect placement versus ink cracking tells NilePrint exactly which process step to check before running the next batch, rather than guessing and risking the same fault, or a different one, recurring at full cost on the next print run.
Lessons 4.1 to 4.3 use this workbook for print method mechanics and cost. This lesson adds a diagnosis section for any flagged piece: record the exact symptom, the fault it names, and the decision that follows.
| Question | Piece 1 (filled in) | Piece 2 (filled in) | Your piece |
|---|---|---|---|
| Exact symptom reported | Print 3 cm lower than spec | Ink film breaking under stretch test | |
| Position, colour or ink film issue? | Position | Ink film | |
| Fault identified | Incorrect placement | Ink cracking | |
| Method most tied to this fault | Both methods equally | Especially screen print, stretch fabrics | |
| Decision (rework, reject, pass) | Rework once repositioned | Depends on severity and customer agreement |
1. What is misregistration, and which print method is it most associated with?
2. What causes ink cracking, and on what kind of fabric is it especially relevant?
3. How is print placement checked on a printed garment?
| EN | AR | FR | TR | Meaning |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Print placement | موضع الطباعة | Placement de l'impression | Baskı yerleşimi | Where a print sits on a garment, measured from fixed reference points such as a set distance down from the shoulder seam. |
| Placement specification | مواصفة موضع الطباعة | Cahier des charges de placement | Yerleşim spesifikasyonu | The customer's written statement of exactly where a print must sit on the garment, checked against every printed piece. |
| Misregistration | عدم تطابق الألوان (ميس رجستريشن) | Défaut de repérage (couleurs décalées) | Renk kayması (misregistrasyon) | Colours not lining up correctly, most common in multi-screen screen print when the screens shift out of alignment with each other. |
| Ink cracking | تشقق الحبر | Craquelure de l'encre | Mürekkep çatlaması | The ink film breaking into visible lines, often from under-curing or the wrong ink type on a stretch fabric. |
| Bleeding | انتشار الحبر (بليدينج) | Étalement de l'encre (bavure) | Mürekkep taşması | Ink spreading beyond its intended edge, often from too much ink or the wrong mesh count. |
| Incorrect placement | خطأ في موضع الطباعة | Placement incorrect | Hatalı yerleşim | The print landing in the wrong position relative to the garment's reference points; a measurement and setup fault, not an ink fault. |
| Mesh count | كثافة الشبكة (الميش) | Finesse du tissu de sérigraphie (maillage) | Elek sıklığı (mesh sayısı) | How fine or coarse a screen's mesh is in screen print; the wrong mesh count can let too much ink through and cause bleeding. |
You now know how to name a print fault correctly from what it looks like. The next lesson brings this course together: it combines print method mechanics, cost, break-even quantity and fault awareness into one recommendation for a new design and order size. Back to the course map