Course contents
Foundation · Course 6: How a Collection Works · Lesson 4 of 5

Buying and open-to-buy: how a retailer decides how much of a collection to commit to

Level: FoundationTime: 40 minutesOrder used: A (the T-shirt), as Fairway Stores' wholesale commitmentTool: Range plan sheet
This lesson is for a retail buyer, a wholesale account manager, or a merchandiser who sells to retailers. The USD 500,000 season budget here is a teaching figure, not a fact about Fairway Stores; only the USD 120,000 commitment on Order A is a recorded figure. Use your own retailer's real budget at work.
RetailerFairway Stores (department-store chain)
Wholesale supplierNorthline Apparel, Order A
Order A commitment15,000 pieces at USD 8.00 wholesale = USD 120,000
Teaching season budgetUSD 500,000 (worked example)
Open-to-buy after Order AUSD 380,000 (worked example)
ToolRange plan sheet, read at wholesale price
02Opening

This page is for anyone who has to decide how much of a retailer's budget a new range should get

This page is for a retail buyer, a wholesale account manager, a merchandiser who sells to retailers, or a student. It teaches a money question a retailer's buyer answers many times each season: given everything already committed, how much budget is genuinely left for one more range. Lesson 6.3 showed how a brand or factory builds a balanced range plan on one sheet. This lesson turns the sheet around and reads it from the retailer's side, at the retailer's own wholesale price, not the supplier's FOB price. Without this skill, a buyer can be talked into a range that looks affordable against a big original budget, while the true remaining budget is already much smaller because of orders placed earlier in the season. This lesson explains "open-to-buy": the live, shrinking number a retailer must check before committing to any range, however good it looks.

03Before you start

What you need, and what this lesson does not cover

You need: lesson 3.3's wholesale figures for Fairway Stores and Order A are useful background but not required; this lesson repeats what you need from them.

By the end of this lesson you can:

  • state what "open-to-buy" means and how it differs from a retailer's total season budget;
  • read a range plan sheet at a retailer's own wholesale price instead of a supplier's FOB price;
  • calculate a retailer's open-to-buy after one commitment, given its total budget and what it has already spent;
  • judge a new range against the correct number: current open-to-buy, not the original total budget;
  • explain why reallocating open-to-buy between brands is a choice a retailer can make, not something forced on it.

Not covered here: how a range plan sheet is built and balanced (lesson 6.3), and how a committed range becomes individual purchase orders (lesson 6.5).

04Key terms

Words you will meet in this lesson

TermMeaning
Season budgetThe total amount a retailer plans to spend buying stock for one season, set before it sees every brand's final range.
Committed spendThe value of purchase orders a retailer has already confirmed against its season budget.
Open-to-buyA retailer's season budget minus its committed spend: the amount still available to commit to any range.
Wholesale priceThe price a supplier charges a retailer for finished goods, higher than the supplier's FOB price and lower than the retailer's own shop price.
ReallocationMoving open-to-buy that was set aside for one brand or range to a different one instead.
Range plan sheetThe one-sheet tool listing every style in a collection, its category, quantity and price, used here to check a retailer's spend against its budget.
05Teaching
The rule

A retailer's open-to-buy is its total season budget minus everything already committed

A retailer plans a total budget for a season before it has seen final ranges from every brand it works with. That budget is set from evidence: how the same department sold last season, and what this season's sales targets are, agreed by the retailer's own planning team well before most ranges are shown to a buyer. As the season goes on, the retailer confirms purchase orders against that budget, one brand at a time, and each confirmed order reduces what is genuinely left.

Open-to-buy is simply the total budget minus what has already been committed: a live, shrinking number that decides how much more the retailer can commit, regardless of how good any individual range looks. It is recalculated every time a new order is confirmed, so the figure a buyer should check on a Monday can be smaller than the figure the same buyer checked the previous Monday, even if the total season budget itself never changed. A retailer never judges a new range against its original total budget; it judges it against whatever open-to-buy remains at that moment, because the original budget no longer describes what is actually available to spend.

Total season budget − committed spend = open-to-buy
What you meet in real life

The same four ideas appear under different names, but the arithmetic never changes

What can differThe shapes you will meetWhy it matters to you
Total season budgetSet from last season's sales plus this season's sales targets, agreed before most ranges are shown. Can cover one department or a whole chain.This is the starting number, not the number a new range is judged against once orders exist.
Committed spendEvery confirmed purchase order counts, whatever brand it is with. Fairway Stores' wholesale purchase from Northline Apparel (Order A, 15,000 pieces at USD 8.00 wholesale) is exactly this kind of committed spend.A retailer must add up commitments across every brand, not just the one range in front of it.
Open-to-buyRecalculated each time a new order is confirmed. Can run for a whole season or be split by month or by department.This is the only figure that correctly tells a buyer what it can still spend.
ReallocationIf one brand's range disappoints or a delivery is cancelled, a retailer can move its remaining open-to-buy to a different brand's range instead of leaving it unspent.Open-to-buy is not locked to the brand it was first set aside for; the retailer decides where it goes.
The case we follow

Fairway Stores has already committed USD 120,000 of its season budget to Order A

Fairway Stores, the department-store chain that buys Northline Apparel's products wholesale, plans a total budget for the season. Before seeing every brand's range, it has already confirmed Order A: 15,000 basic cotton T-shirts at Northline Apparel's wholesale price of USD 8.00 each. That commitment is fixed and already spent against the budget. Fairway Stores' buyer now has to decide how much of what remains it can commit to a new range from a different brand.

The worked number

Fairway Stores' open-to-buy, using a worked season budget of USD 500,000

For this worked example, say Fairway Stores planned a total season budget of USD 500,000. Its committed spend on Order A alone is:

8.00 × 15,000 = USD 120,000
Worked example: a USD 500,000 season budget Committed to Order A: USD 120,000 Open-to-buy remaining: USD 380,000
Most of a worked season budget is still open-to-buy after one commitment. After Order A's USD 120,000 commitment, USD 380,000 of the worked USD 500,000 budget remains for every other brand and range Fairway Stores still needs to buy that season.

Fairway Stores' open-to-buy after this one commitment:

500,000 − 120,000 = USD 380,000

This USD 500,000 total and the USD 380,000 open-to-buy are illustrative teaching figures for this worked example, not recorded facts about Fairway Stores; only the USD 120,000 committed on Order A comes from Fairway Stores' own figures.

The method

Four steps to find a retailer's open-to-buy at any point in a season

  1. Start from the retailer's total planned season budget. Use the figure agreed before the season began, not a guess, and not the figure a sales agent quotes back to you.
  2. List every purchase order already confirmed against that budget, from every brand. Add their values together, whatever brand each one is with; a commitment made to one brand still reduces what is available for every other brand.
  3. Subtract that total committed spend from the total season budget. The remainder is the retailer's current open-to-buy, and it changes every time another order is confirmed.
  4. Judge any new range against that remaining open-to-buy, never against the original total budget. A range that looked affordable against the original budget can be unaffordable against what is actually left, once earlier commitments are counted.
1. Set totalseason budget2. Subtractconfirmed orders3. What is leftis open-to-buy4. Judge a newrange against it
Open-to-buy is the last of four steps, not the first number a buyer reaches for. Skipping straight from step 1 to step 4 is the trap the next section describes.
The trap

A common mistake is judging a new range against a retailer's original total season budget instead of its current open-to-buy

A common mistake is comparing a proposed new range's cost against the retailer's original total season budget, instead of against its current open-to-buy. A retailer with a large original budget but very little open-to-buy left, because it has already committed most of it elsewhere, genuinely cannot take on a large new range, however good it looks. The live, shrinking number is what matters, not the original one. This is exactly what happens in the workplace scenario below.

06In plain words

A retailer plans a total budget for a season before it sees every brand's range. As it confirms orders, that budget shrinks. Open-to-buy is what is left: total budget minus everything already committed. Fairway Stores committed USD 120,000 to Order A's T-shirts; against a worked total budget of USD 500,000, that leaves USD 380,000 open-to-buy. Any new range must be judged against that USD 380,000, not against the original USD 500,000, because the USD 120,000 is already spent. If one brand's range disappoints, the retailer can move its remaining open-to-buy to a different brand instead.

07Quick check
  • Open-to-buy is total season budget minus committed spend, recalculated after every confirmed order.
  • A large original season budget does not mean a large open-to-buy; check what has already been committed first.
  • Judge a new range against current open-to-buy, never against the original total budget.
  • Committed spend counts every confirmed order, from every brand, not just the one range in front of you.
  • Open-to-buy can be reallocated from one brand to another; it is not locked once set aside.
  • Reading a range plan sheet at the retailer's own wholesale price, not the supplier's FOB price, is what tells a buyer the true cost against its budget.
08Workplace scenario

A sales agent for a new denim brand tells Fairway Stores' buyer its USD 450,000 range easily fits a USD 500,000 season budget

A sales agent representing a new denim brand shows Fairway Stores' buyer a range worth USD 450,000 wholesale. The agent argues: "Your season budget is USD 500,000, so there's easily room."

Fairway Stores' buyer knows the same range plan sheet already carries one confirmed commitment this season:

Range plan sheet, Fairway Stores' wholesale view. Order A (basic cotton T-shirt), quantity 15,000 pieces, wholesale price USD 8.00 per piece, confirmed and already committed against the season budget.

Is comparing the new USD 450,000 range against the original USD 500,000 budget the right test? Decide before opening the answer.

Show decision

No. The right test is against open-to-buy, not the original total budget. Two facts decide this together.

First, the committed spend already on record. Fairway Stores has confirmed Order A's T-shirts at USD 8.00 wholesale × 15,000 pieces = USD 120,000, and likely has other commitments elsewhere in the season that are not shown in this one range plan row.

Second, what open-to-buy that leaves. Using the same worked USD 500,000 season budget as the earlier example, open-to-buy after Order A alone is 500,000 − 120,000 = USD 380,000. The agent's USD 450,000 range is larger than that USD 380,000, even before any other commitment is counted. The agent's comparison against the original USD 500,000 budget ignores everything already committed, and so overstates how much room genuinely remains.

09What it costs

What committing to the new range without checking open-to-buy would cost

Framed qualitatively, using the same USD 120,000 committed-spend example: if Fairway Stores committed to the new USD 450,000 range without checking its real open-to-buy, and its true remaining figure was, say, USD 200,000 once other commitments besides Order A are included, it would overcommit its season budget.

450,000 − 200,000 = USD 250,000 overcommitted

An overcommitment of this size is a real cash-flow and inventory-risk problem for Fairway Stores: money promised to suppliers beyond what the season budget can cover, and stock arriving that the retailer may not be able to pay for or sell through on time. It is avoidable simply by checking the live open-to-buy number, not the original total budget, before committing to any new range.

10Working template

Range plan sheet: read it at your own wholesale price, not the supplier's FOB price

The range plan sheet's example row lists Order A at Northline Apparel's FOB price, USD 3.20, because it is built from the supplier's side. A retailer like Fairway Stores reads it differently: take the quantity (15,000 pieces) and apply your own wholesale price, USD 8.00, not the FOB price shown. Do this by hand next to the sheet.

QuestionOrder A, read at Fairway Stores' wholesale priceYour order
Quantity, from the range plan sheet15,000 pieces
Price to use (not the sheet's FOB column)USD 8.00 wholesale
Committed spend8.00 × 15,000 = USD 120,000
Total season budgetYour retailer's own figure
Open-to-buy after this commitmentBudget − 120,000

Download the Range plan sheet (Excel)

11Check yourself

1. What is open-to-buy?

2. Should a new range be judged against a retailer's original total season budget, or its current open-to-buy?

3. A different retailer plans a total season budget of USD 300,000 and has already committed USD 90,000 to confirmed orders. What is its open-to-buy?

12Glossary
ENARFRTRMeaning
Season budgetميزانية الموسمBudget de saisonSezon bütçesiThe total amount a retailer plans to spend buying stock for one season, set before it sees every brand's final range.
Committed spendالإنفاق الملتزم بهDépenses engagéesTaahhüt edilen harcamaThe value of purchase orders a retailer has already confirmed against its season budget.
Open-to-buyالرصيد المتاح للشراءBudget disponible (open-to-buy)Alıma açık bütçe (open-to-buy)A retailer's season budget minus its committed spend: the amount still available to commit to any range.
Wholesale priceسعر الجملةPrix de grosToptan fiyatThe price a supplier charges a retailer for finished goods, higher than the supplier's FOB price and lower than the retailer's own shop price.
Reallocationإعادة التوزيعRéaffectationYeniden tahsisMoving open-to-buy that was set aside for one brand or range to a different one instead.
Range plan sheetورقة خطة التشكيلةFiche de plan de collectionKoleksiyon planı tablosuThe one-sheet tool listing every style in a collection, its category, quantity and price.
13Next

Lesson 6.5: From collection plan to individual purchase orders

You now know how a retailer turns its season budget into a live open-to-buy figure before committing to any one range. The next lesson looks at what happens after a commitment is made: how a collection plan becomes the individual purchase orders that factories actually receive. Back to the course map

14Ladder

RecognizeName a retailer's total season budget and its committed spend separately.
ConnectCalculate open-to-buy as total budget minus committed spend.
CompareTell open-to-buy apart from the original total season budget when judging a new range.
DecideJudge whether a retailer can afford a new range using its current open-to-buy, not its original budget.