Course contents
Foundation · Course 4: Make to Order and Make to Stock · Lesson 2 of 5

How Make to Order changes lead time, risk and cash flow compared with Make to Stock

Level: FoundationTime: 45 minutesOrder used: A (the T-shirt)Tool: MTO or MTS? classifier
This lesson is for anyone new to the apparel and textile trade: a factory owner, a merchandiser, a buyer, a student, or someone in a supporting business. Lesson 4.1 is useful background but not required. Money figures are teaching examples in US dollars. At work, use the real numbers of your own order.
BuyerNorthline Apparel (overseas clothing brand)
FactoryDelta Garments (garment factory)
ProductBasic cotton T-shirt, one colour
Quantity15,000 pieces
Timeline16 weeks from confirmed order to delivery
Payment termsLetter of credit at shipment
02Opening

This page is for anyone who has to explain, to a buyer or to their own factory, why a confirmed order still takes the full lead time to deliver

Lesson 4.1 taught the three questions that tell you whether an order is Make to Order (MTO), Make to Stock (MTS), or hybrid. This lesson takes the MTO side of that answer and asks what it actually changes for the people running the order: how long the buyer waits, who is financially exposed before delivery, and what kind of risk that exposure really is. A merchandiser who does not know this can make two opposite mistakes: promising a buyer a shorter wait than an MTO order can deliver, or telling a factory owner that a confirmed order carries no risk at all, when it still does. This lesson mainly teaches the money flow: what is spent, by whom, and when, once an order under Make to Order is confirmed. By the end, you can explain why MTO trades one kind of risk for another instead of removing risk altogether.

03Before you start

What you need, and what this lesson does not cover

You need: lesson 4.1's three questions (trigger, forecast ownership, and whether the company also runs the other pattern), and lesson 1.5's method for counting a lead time stage by stage.

By the end of this lesson you can:

  • explain why an MTO buyer's wait for delivery starts only at order confirmation, not when discussions began;
  • describe how pre-negotiated capacity can shorten that wait, and what risk it adds for the factory;
  • say what an MTO factory and an MTO buyer are each financially exposed to before delivery;
  • tell operational risk (finishing on time, to spec, at the agreed cost) apart from commercial risk (whether the goods will sell);
  • decide whether a factory should start production on a promise, before an order's payment security is actually in place.

Not covered here: how MTS shifts these same three things, forecasting, warehousing and markdown (lesson 4.3), and the hybrid case where a company runs both patterns at once (lesson 4.4).

04Key terms

Words you will meet in this lesson

TermMeaning
Make to Order (MTO)Production starts only after a specific buyer confirms a specific order.
Confirmed orderAn order both sides have agreed to, in writing, with its payment security in place; not a quotation or a discussion.
Lead timeThe total time from a confirmed order to the goods reaching their destination.
Letter of creditA bank promise to pay the factory once the shipping documents match the order.
Pre-negotiated capacityFactory production capacity a buyer reserves ahead of a season, before a specific order is confirmed.
Operational riskThe risk that a confirmed order is not finished on time, to spec, or at the agreed cost.
Commercial riskThe risk that finished goods will not sell, carried by whoever owns unsold stock.
Pre-production agreementA written agreement that lets work start before an order's full payment security is in place, stating clearly who carries the cost if the order later falls through.
05Teaching
The rule

An MTO buyer waits the full production lead time because nothing is pre-built, but neither side ties up money in unsold goods

Because Make to Order production only starts after a confirmed order, the buyer waits the full production lead time before receiving goods; there is no shortcut from existing stock, because none exists yet. In exchange for that wait, neither the factory nor the buyer ties up money or factory capacity making goods nobody has agreed to buy. This is the trade at the centre of MTO: the risk does not disappear, it changes shape, from "will this sell?" to "will this specific order finish on time?"

Discussions andquotingOrder confirmed,letter of creditopens — day 016-weekproductionlead timeDeliveryto buyerNo cash or material is committed before this point
The buyer's wait and the factory's lead-time clock both begin only at confirmation. Discussions and quoting can run for weeks beforehand, but no cash, fabric or labour is committed by the factory until the order is confirmed and its payment security is in place.
What you meet in real life

The same MTO rule appears in several shapes, from a fully sequential order to one with capacity already reserved

What can differThe shapes you meetWhy it matters to you
Full MTO lead timeThe buyer waits the order's entire production lead time from confirmed order to delivery; nothing is pre-built, so nothing shortens the wait.This is the baseline case. Promising a shorter delivery without a real reason (see the next row) sets an expectation the factory cannot meet.
MTO with pre-negotiated capacityA buyer reserves factory capacity ahead of a season, before a firm order exists, shortening the lead time once an order is finally confirmed.The factory now carries a new risk: if the order never comes, the reserved capacity goes unused, and the factory has turned away other work to hold it open.
Cash flow under MTOThe factory is paid against a confirmed order, under agreed terms such as a letter of credit at shipment; cash is tied to a real, sold order, not to unsold inventory sitting in a warehouse.A merchandiser who understands this can explain to either side why payment, not goodwill, is what actually protects the factory's cash.
Risk under MTOThe main risk is operational, finishing the confirmed order on time, to spec, and at the agreed cost, rather than commercial, whether the goods will sell, because the buyer has already committed to buy before production starts.Confusing these two kinds of risk leads a factory to under-price the real cost of a late fabric delivery or a failed inspection, believing a confirmed order has "no risk" at all.

None of these shapes changes the underlying rule: an MTO buyer's clock starts at confirmation, and an MTO factory's money is tied to a sold order, not to stock. What differs is how much of the lead time has already been absorbed before that clock starts, and by whom.

The case we follow

Order A: Northline Apparel's confirmation, not its first enquiry, starts Delta Garments' 16-week clock

Northline Apparel confirms Order A, 15,000 basic cotton T-shirts, with Delta Garments. Delta Garments' 16-week timeline, first set out in lesson 1.5, only starts once that confirmation and its letter of credit are actually in place, not when the two companies first discussed the order. Before that point, Delta Garments has cut no fabric and advanced no cash of its own on this order; discussions, sampling and price negotiation can all happen beforehand without starting the clock or committing a single dollar of production spend.

This is the practical meaning of Make to Order for Delta Garments: the 16 weeks of approvals, fabric, sewing, inspection and shipping that lesson 1.5 laid out all sit after confirmation, never before it. A buyer who assumes the factory has been quietly working during the discussion stage is assuming something that, under a genuine MTO order, has not happened.

The worked number

None of Order A's USD 48,000 is spent by Delta Garments before the order is confirmed

Order A's own costing builds up to its FOB price per piece from five parts, shown in full in lesson 1.3: fabric, trims, making, overhead and profit. Across the full order, that FOB price is a real amount of money at stake.

Fabric plus trims: 1.15 + 0.20 = USD 1.35
Add making: 1.35 + 1.10 = USD 2.45
Add overhead: 2.45 + 0.49 = USD 2.94
Add profit, giving the FOB price: 2.94 + 0.26 = USD 3.20
Order A's total order value: 3.20 × 15,000 = USD 48,000

Under Make to Order, none of this USD 48,000 in materials and labour is spent by Delta Garments until Northline Apparel's order is confirmed and its letter of credit is in place. Compare this to a Make to Stock order of the same size, where the factory or brand would have spent that money before knowing for certain the goods will sell at all; that difference is exactly what "the risk shifts, it does not disappear" means in money terms.

Order A's USD 3.20 FOB price per piece, by the cutting stageFabric, trims and making 2.45Overhead and profit 0.75
USD 2.45 of Order A's USD 3.20 FOB price is committed by the cutting stage, before shipment. The remaining USD 0.75, overhead and profit, is only realised once the confirmed order actually ships. Under MTO, this whole amount is only spent because a confirmed order already exists.
The method

Four steps to assess an MTO order's lead time and risk

  1. Confirm the trigger date. Find when the order was actually confirmed and its payment security agreed, not when discussions or sampling started.
  2. Count the lead time forward from that date. Use the same stage-by-stage method as lesson 1.5, starting the clock at confirmation, not before it.
  3. Identify what the buyer is financially exposed to before delivery. This is usually a deposit or the opening of a letter of credit, not the goods themselves, which the factory still owns until the delivery point (lesson 1.2).
  4. Identify what the factory is financially exposed to. This is its own material and labour spend, recoverable through the agreed payment terms once the goods ship.
The trap

Assuming a confirmed MTO order carries no risk for the factory because the sale is already secured

A common mistake is assuming Make to Order has "no risk" for the factory once the order is confirmed. A confirmed MTO order still carries real operational risk: a late fabric delivery, a failed inspection, or a cancellation after cutting starts under a clause like lesson 1.4's clause 14. Calling this "no risk" is wrong; the risk is simply a different kind, delivery and performance risk, from Make to Stock's forecast and inventory risk. A merchandiser who tells a factory owner that a confirmed order is risk-free leaves that owner unprepared for the operational failures that can still cost real money on a genuinely sold order.

06In plain words

Under Make to Order, a buyer's wait for delivery starts only once the order is actually confirmed, not when talks began. Reserving factory capacity ahead of time can shorten that wait, but it puts the risk of unused capacity onto the factory if the order never comes. Once an order is confirmed, the factory's cash is tied to a real, agreed sale, paid under terms like a letter of credit, not spent on goods nobody has promised to buy. This does not remove risk. It changes what kind of risk it is: from whether the goods will sell under Make to Stock, to whether this specific order will finish on time, to spec, and at cost under Make to Order. A factory that starts cutting fabric on a verbal promise, before that payment security is actually in place, throws away exactly this protection.

07Quick check
  • An MTO buyer's wait for delivery starts at order confirmation, not at the first enquiry or quotation.
  • Pre-negotiated capacity can shorten an MTO lead time, but it shifts unused-capacity risk onto the factory.
  • Under MTO, factory cash is tied to a confirmed, sold order, usually released against agreed terms such as a letter of credit at shipment.
  • MTO's main risk for the factory is operational: finishing on time, to spec, and at the agreed cost.
  • "No risk" is the wrong way to describe a confirmed MTO order; it carries a different risk, not zero risk.
  • A written pre-production agreement, not a verbal promise, is the correct tool for starting work before payment security is fully in place.
08Workplace scenario

Northline Apparel's buyer asks Delta Garments to start cutting fabric two weeks before the letter of credit is confirmed to open

Northline Apparel's buyer, Sara, asks Delta Garments to begin cutting fabric for Order A two weeks before the letter of credit is confirmed to open, to save time, promising the paperwork will follow.

Sara's request, by email. "Please start cutting for Order A now so we don't lose two weeks. The letter of credit will be opened shortly; the paperwork will follow."

You are Karim, Delta Garments' production manager. Should you agree to start cutting before the letter of credit actually opens? Decide before you open the answer.

Show decision

No, not without a different form of written commitment. The whole point of Make to Order is that the factory's cash and material exposure only begins once the order, and its payment security, here the letter of credit, is actually confirmed.

Starting to cut fabric on a verbal promise converts a real MTO order into something closer to unfunded Make to Stock risk for Delta Garments: it would be committing its own materials and labour against a sale that is not yet secured. If the letter of credit is delayed or never opens, Delta Garments has spent real money on goods it cannot be certain anyone will pay for.

If Northline Apparel genuinely needs to save time, the correct tool is a written pre-production agreement that shifts some of that risk explicitly and in writing, stating who pays for the fabric and labour already committed if the letter of credit does not open. An informal head start on a promise is not that agreement, however well the two companies usually work together.

09What it costs

What Delta Garments would risk by cutting early on a promise that is not kept

Using the same USD 2.45-per-piece cutting-stage value already established in lesson 1.2 (fabric, trims and making so far), Delta Garments' exposure if it cut Order A's fabric early and the letter of credit never opened would be real, uncommitted money.

Fabric plus trims per piece: 1.15 + 0.20 = USD 1.35
Cutting-stage cost per piece: 1.35 + 1.10 = USD 2.45
Exposure on 15,000 pieces if the letter of credit never opens: 2.45 × 15,000 = USD 36,750

This is the same USD 36,750 that lesson 1.2 established as what Delta Garments would lose if Order A's goods were destroyed before shipment while it still owned them. Here it is the same number, recast: not the ordinary production risk of a confirmed order, but uncommitted risk taken on a verbal promise, against roughly 77% of the order's USD 48,000 total value, spent before any bank stood behind the sale.

10Working template

MTO or MTS? classifier, Decide sheet: apply this lesson's point to your own order

The Decide sheet asks three questions and calculates a classification. Fill in, or check, your own order's row using this lesson's lead-time and cash-flow point.

QuestionOrder A (filled in)Your order
Does production start only after a confirmed sale, or against a forecast?Confirmed sale
If against a forecast, who owns that forecast risk?Not applicable (confirmed sale)
Has any cash or material been committed before payment security was in place, as Sara asked Karim to do?No, and it should stay no

If your own answer to that third check is "yes," treat it as a warning: your order carries Make to Stock-style exposure while priced as a confirmed, protected sale.

Download the MTO or MTS? classifier (Excel)

11Check yourself

1. Under Make to Order, when does the buyer's wait for delivery typically start?

2. What kind of risk does Make to Order mainly leave with the factory, assuming the order is genuinely confirmed?

3. A domestic factory makes 8,000 jackets only after a retailer signs a confirmed order and pays a 30% deposit. What is the factory mainly exposed to before the remaining 70% is paid?

12Glossary
ENARFRTRMeaning
Make to Order (MTO)الإنتاج حسب الطلبFabrication sur commande (MTO)Siparişe göre üretim (MTO)Production starts only after a specific buyer confirms a specific order.
Confirmed orderطلبية مؤكدةCommande confirméeOnaylanmış siparişAn order both sides have agreed to, in writing, with its payment security in place; not a quotation or a discussion.
Lead timeالوقت الإجمالي للتنفيذDélai de productionTeslim süresiThe total time from a confirmed order to the goods reaching their destination.
Letter of creditاعتماد مستنديLettre de créditAkreditifA bank promise to pay the factory once the shipping documents match the order.
Pre-negotiated capacityطاقة إنتاجية محجوزة مسبقًاCapacité pré-négociéeÖnceden ayrılmış kapasiteFactory production capacity a buyer reserves ahead of a season, before a specific order is confirmed.
Operational riskمخاطرة تشغيليةRisque opérationnelOperasyonel riskThe risk that a confirmed order is not finished on time, to spec, or at the agreed cost.
Commercial riskمخاطرة تجاريةRisque commercialTicari riskThe risk that finished goods will not sell, carried by whoever owns unsold stock.
Pre-production agreementاتفاقية ما قبل الإنتاجAccord de pré-productionÖn üretim anlaşmasıA written agreement that lets work start before an order's full payment security is in place, stating clearly who carries the cost if the order later falls through.
13Next

Lesson 4.3: How Make to Stock changes forecasting, warehousing and markdown risk

You now know how Make to Order shifts a factory's and a buyer's risk toward finishing the order on time, not toward whether it will sell. The next lesson looks at the opposite case: what forecasting, warehousing and markdown risk actually cost a company that makes to stock. Back to the course map

14Ladder

RecognizeName what starts an MTO buyer's wait for delivery, and what does not.
ConnectSee how pre-negotiated capacity shortens the wait but shifts unused-capacity risk to the factory.
CompareTell operational risk apart from commercial risk, and say which one MTO mainly leaves with the factory.
DecideRefuse to start production on a verbal promise before an order's payment security is actually in place.